Aleppo: Dust, Dates, and a Seriously Chill Vibe (Maybe)

okay, so aleppo. it’s…a lot. i wasn’t expecting it to hit me the way it did. i’m a freelance photographer, usually chasing light in *abandoned factories or trying to capture the perfect golden hour on a beach, but this was different. it felt…raw. i’m still sorting through the photos, honestly. it’s not the kind of place you just point and shoot.

i just checked and it’s…a bit hazy right now, with a temperature hovering around fourteen point something celsius. feels like twelve though, which is a sneaky kind of cold. the air is dry, like seriously dry. my lips are already protesting. the pressure’s a bit wonky, apparently, at 1022, but honestly, i’m more concerned about finding decent coffee.

the old city is incredible, obviously. the citadel is…well, it’s a citadel. you know? huge, imposing, full of history. i spent a whole afternoon just wandering the souks, getting lost in the maze of stalls. i picked up a ridiculously ornate tea set, probably for way too much money, but hey, souvenirs. i’ve been trying to learn a few phrases in arabic, but i mostly just end up pointing and smiling. it works surprisingly well.

someone told me that the best falafel in the city is from a tiny stall near the Great Mosque, but you have to get there before noon or it’s all gone. i haven’t managed that yet. i’m a photographer, not a morning person. it’s a struggle. i did find this amazing little bakery though, selling these date-filled pastries that are seriously addictive. i’m pretty sure i’ve consumed my weight in dates in the last three days.

"Don't trust anyone who offers you 'authentic' antiques. It's all reproductions, darling. Beautiful reproductions, but still."

that’s what an old woman selling spices told me. she was very insistent. i think she was trying to warn me off a particularly pushy vendor.

the people here are…resilient. that’s the only word for it. they’ve been through so much, and yet they still manage to smile, to offer you tea, to share what little they have. it’s humbling, honestly. if you get bored, Damascus and Homs are just a short, but complicated, journey away.

i overheard a couple of guys talking in a cafe about a hidden courtyard with a fountain and the best shisha in town. apparently, you need to know someone to get in. i’m working on it. i’m thinking bribery might be involved. or maybe just a really good camera.

i checked TripAdvisor and Yelp, but honestly, the reviews are…sparse. a lot of outdated information. it’s a place you have to experience for yourself, you know? i did find a local forum (https://www.lonelyplanet.com/syria/aleppo/forum) that had some useful tips about getting around.

i heard that the Bab al-Faraj neighborhood is really up-and-coming, with a lot of artists and musicians moving in. i’m planning to check it out tomorrow. i’m also hoping to find a decent hammam (traditional bathhouse). my muscles are screaming for a good scrub.

"The best way to find the real Aleppo is to get lost. Seriously, just wander. You'll stumble upon something amazing."

that was a drunk guy i met in a bar. surprisingly insightful, considering.

i’m staying in a small guesthouse in the old city. it’s basic, but clean, and the owner is incredibly friendly. he makes the best mint tea* i’ve ever tasted. i’m trying to document everything, to capture the spirit of this place before it changes too much. it’s a challenge, but it’s also incredibly rewarding.

i’m not going to lie, it’s not an easy place to travel. it’s dusty, it’s chaotic, and it’s emotionally draining. but it’s also beautiful, resilient, and full of life. it’s a place that will stay with me for a long time. check out this resource for more info: https://www.syriatourism.org/en/ and this one: https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2023/oct/28/aleppo-syria-travel-guide. and if you're feeling adventurous, maybe even consider a guided tour: https://www.getyourguide.com/s/?k=aleppo&q=aleppo.

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