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Varanasi: Dust, Chai, and a Seriously Sticky Heat

@Zara Walsh3/1/2026blog

okay, so varanasi. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i thought i’d seen chaotic, but this place operates on a different plane of existence. i just landed, and the air itself feels thick enough to chew. i just checked and it's shimmering with heat right now, like a mirage, and honestly, you're gonna sweat. a lot.


my flight numbers were 1276371 and 1356254485, which feels oddly significant now, like some kind of cosmic code for “prepare to be overwhelmed.” the weather report said 33.74 degrees Celsius, but “feels like” 31.26? that’s a lie. it feels like being gently roasted. humidity’s at 12%, which is…weirdly low for this kind of heat, but the air pressure is definitely doing something to my sinuses. i’m pretty sure my camera lens is sweating too.

Varanasi street scene


first impressions? *ghats. so many ghats. steps leading down to the Ganges, overflowing with life, death, and everything in between. it’s…intense. i spent the first hour just trying not to trip over someone’s offerings or accidentally photobomb a cremation ceremony. (which, by the way, is a thing. a very public thing.)

people here are…direct. i was trying to haggle for a chai (which, let me tell you, is essential for survival) and this woman just stared me down until i paid what she wanted. no smiles, no pleasantries, just pure, unadulterated negotiation. it was kind of amazing.

someone told me that the best lassi in Varanasi is from a tiny stall near Dashashwamedh Ghat, but you have to ask for ‘the special’ - apparently, it’s got a secret ingredient. i haven’t been brave enough to try it yet.


my guesthouse is…rustic. let’s just say the plumbing is “characterful.” but it’s cheap, and it’s close to the Assi Ghat, which is a little less chaotic than the main ghats. i found it on TripAdvisor, and the reviews were…mixed. but hey, what do you expect for ten bucks a night?

Ganges River


gear-wise, i’m living off this list:

 *Camera: obviously. my trusty Sony a7iii. gotta protect it from the dust though.
 *Lens: 35mm and 85mm. perfect for street photography and portraits.
 *Dust filter: seriously, don’t leave home without one.
 *Hand sanitizer: you’ll thank me later.
 *Loose clothing: linen is your friend.
 *Scarf: for covering your head in temples and protecting your face from the dust.
 *Earplugs: the city never sleeps.

Varanasi temple


if you get bored, Allahabad and Sarnath are just a short train ride away. i’m thinking of heading to Sarnath next, to see the deer park where Buddha gave his first sermon. sounds a little more peaceful than the madness here. i heard from a fellow traveler on the train that the food stalls near the train station are amazing, but you need a strong stomach.

apparently, there’s a whole underground network of sadhus (holy men) who control the flow of everything in Varanasi. someone swore they saw one levitating near Manikarnika Ghat. i’m skeptical, but…this place makes you question everything.


I overheard some drunk advice at a rooftop restaurant* last night: “Don’t drink the water. Don’t trust the monkeys. And definitely don’t make eye contact with the cows.” solid advice, honestly. you can find some good restaurants on Yelp.

I’m also checking out Lonely Planet for some more info. It's a bit touristy, but it's a good starting point.

this place is exhausting, exhilarating, and utterly baffling. i have no idea what’s going to happen next, but i’m pretty sure it’s going to be interesting. i'll try to update again soon, if i haven't been swallowed by the chaos.

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About the author: Zara Walsh

Loves data, hates clutter.

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