Salvador, Bahia: Humidity, Drum Circles, and a Whole Lot of 'Wait, What?'

okay, so i’m currently sweating through everything i own in *Salvador, Bahia. it’s…sticky. like, permanently adhered-to-your-skin sticky. i just checked and it’s hovering around twenty-three degrees, but feels like it’s trying to actively boil you, which, honestly, is a mood. the air pressure is doing its thing, and the humidity is basically a sentient being at eighty-eight percent.

i’m a touring session drummer, which means i spend a lot of time in questionable venues, but this place…this place is different. i came here on a whim, chasing a rumor about insane percussion workshops. and it’s true. it’s so true. the rhythms here aren’t just music; they’re a conversation with the ancestors, a pulse of the city. i’ve been spending my days getting absolutely schooled by guys who’ve been playing since they were kids, and my hands are legitimately bleeding, but it’s the best kind of pain, you know?

the Pelourinho is…intense. beautiful, obviously, with all the colonial architecture, but also intensely alive. it’s a sensory overload. colors everywhere, the smell of acarajé frying, capoeira happening on every corner. i swear i saw a guy juggling flaming machetes yesterday. maybe i was dehydrated.

someone told me that the best acarajé is from Cira’s, but you have to get there before noon or you’re out of luck. i also overheard a very passionate debate about which blocos afro are worth following during carnival - apparently, Olodum is “touristy” now, and you should check out Filhos de Gandhy instead. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g303506-Activities-Salvador_State_of_Bahia.html is a good place to start, but honestly, just wander and get lost. that’s where the magic happens.

i’ve been staying in a little guesthouse in Santo Antônio Além do Carmo. it’s a bit quieter than Pelourinho, but still buzzing with energy. my neighbors are…eccentric. there’s a woman who practices yoga on her balcony at six am every morning (bless her heart, but my ears), and a guy who seems to be building a boat in his living room. if you get bored, Praia do Forte is just a short drive away, apparently it's got turtles.

“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘special’ price on anything. It’s always a scam.”

that’s what the guesthouse owner, Dona Maria, warned me. she’s a total firecracker, that woman. she also insisted i try a caipirinha made with cachaça from her cousin’s farm. it was…potent.

i’ve been trying to document everything with my camera, but it’s hard to capture the feeling of this place. it’s not just the sights and sounds; it’s the energy, the history, the sheer, unapologetic vibrancy. i heard that the local art scene is thriving, and you can find some amazing pieces at the Mercado Modelo. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Art+Galleries&find_loc=Salvador%2C+Bahia&ns=1 might be a good starting point.

i’m heading to a roda de samba tonight. apparently, it’s legendary. i’m bracing myself for more humidity, more incredible music, and probably more questionable life choices. i’m also trying to learn a few basic Portuguese phrases, but so far, i’ve only mastered “cerveja, por favor.” which, honestly, is probably enough. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/brazil/bahia/salvador has some useful phrases, if you're feeling ambitious.

“The traffic here is…a suggestion, not a rule.”

that was a taxi driver’s assessment of the Avenida ACM. he wasn’t wrong. it’s chaos, but somehow, it works.

i’m starting to think i might need to extend my stay. i’ve barely scratched the surface of this place. and honestly, i’m not sure i want* to scratch the surface. i want to dive in headfirst and get completely lost in the rhythm of it all. i'm also looking at some drumming workshops https://www.eventbrite.com/d/brazil--salvador/music/ to improve my skills.

Salvador, Bahia: Humidity, Drum Circles, and a Whole Lot of 'Wait, What?'

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About the author: Adrian Cole

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