Riyadh: Dust, Dates, and a Seriously Confusing Clock

okay, so riyadh. it’s…a lot. i landed with absolutely zero expectations, honestly, just chasing a cheap flight and a vague promise of good *coffee. i’m a professional chef, usually bouncing between pop-ups and trying to convince people that fermented black garlic is delicious, but i needed a break. a real break. and riyadh delivered on the ‘different’ front, immediately.

first off, the air. it’s not humid, exactly, but it’s…present. i just checked and it’s eighteen point four degrees, feels like eighteen point five, with a pressure that feels like it’s trying to politely ask you to lie down. eighty-five percent humidity, which is a weirdly gentle kind of sticky. it clings to you like a well-meaning aunt.

a sign with arabic writing in front of some trees

my hotel is near the Kingdom Centre, which, let me tell you, is a building that actively defies logic. it’s got a giant hole in it. a hole. apparently, it’s a viewing platform, but honestly, it just looks like someone forgot to finish the construction. someone told me the architect lost a bet. i don’t know if that’s true, but it feels right. i spent a good hour just staring at it, trying to figure out the structural engineering. failed miserably.

Decorative tilework with arabic calligraphy on a brick wall.

food-wise, it’s incredible. i mean, obviously. i’m a chef, i have standards. the dates are otherworldly. seriously, forget everything you think you know about dates. these are…date perfection. i’ve been wandering through the souks, getting lost in a maze of spices and textiles. i found this tiny place, Al Najdi Restaurant (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g295428-d1084349-Reviews-Al_Najdi_Restaurant-Riyadh_Province.html), that serves the most amazing kabsa. it’s a rice dish with meat, and it’s just…wow.

blockquote>
"apparently, if you try to haggle too much in the gold souk, they’ll just laugh at you. like, a full-on, belly-laugh situation."
endblockquote

people are…reserved, but incredibly kind. i tried to ask for directions yesterday and ended up with a full cup of tea and a twenty-minute lecture on the history of the local pottery. i didn’t understand half of it, but it was lovely. if you get bored, dammam and jeddah are just a short flight away, i’ve heard.

Narrow alleyway between old buildings in a city

there’s this weird obsession with malls. like, huge malls. i overheard someone saying that the Riyadh Park Mall (https://www.riyadhpark.com.sa/en/) is basically a social event. apparently, people go there just to be seen. i haven’t ventured in yet, i’m still clinging to the souks, but i might have to check it out for research purposes, obviously. i also saw a review on Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Restaurants&find_loc=Riyadh%2C+Saudi+Arabia) that said the food court has the best shawarma in the city. that’s a claim i need to investigate.

blockquote>
"don’t even think about wearing shorts. seriously. just don’t."
endblockquote

and the clock tower. oh, the clock tower. it’s…loud. it announces the call to prayer five times a day, and it’s intense*. it vibrates through your chest. it’s a good reminder that you’re somewhere completely different. i’m starting to think i need earplugs. or maybe just to embrace the chaos. i’m leaning towards chaos. check out this local forum for more info: https://www.expat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389998.

blockquote>
"the traffic is…an experience. just accept it. and maybe learn a few new curse words."
endblockquote

so yeah, riyadh. it’s dusty, it’s date-filled, it’s confusing, and it’s surprisingly addictive. i’m not sure what i expected, but it definitely wasn’t this. and honestly? i’m kind of glad.

Riyadh: Dust, Dates, and a Seriously Confusing Clock

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About the author: Sophia Berg

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