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Medellín, Man: Sweat, Arepas, and a Whole Lotta Confusion

@Olivia Dawn3/14/2026blog

okay, so. medellín. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. usually, i’m knee-deep in ferns and moss, not dodging scooters and trying to figure out how to order coffee without accidentally insulting someone. but hey, fieldwork is fieldwork, right? i’m here ostensibly to study the epiphytes in the surrounding cloud forests, but honestly, i’m mostly here for the vibes.


I just checked and it's…a humid blanket draped over everything right now. thirty-something degrees, feels like thirty-two, and the air just sticks to you. i’m not complaining, per se. i’m used to humidity, but this is a whole other level. it’s like living inside a giant, slightly sweaty orchid.


I’ve been crashing in Laureles, which is…interesting. it’s got this really cool, slightly grungy vibe. Lots of street art, tiny cafes overflowing with people arguing about fútbol, and the constant hum of scooters. if you get bored, guatapé and its giant rock are just a short bus ride away. seriously, go. it’s worth it.

Speaking of interesting, the neighbors. apparently, there’s a lot of talk about the ongoing development in Envigado. someone told me that property values are skyrocketing, and everyone’s worried about it losing its charm. i overheard a couple arguing about it outside my window last night - something about “gentrification” and “losing the soul of the barrio.” dramatic, right?


I spent yesterday wandering around El Poblado, which is…a different world entirely. Shiny, modern, full of expats and fancy restaurants. It’s nice, i guess, but it felt a little…sterile. I did find a fantastic arepa place though. Seriously, find it. It’s called…wait, i can’t remember the name. But it’s on Calle 10, near Parque Lleras. Yelp says it’s got a 4.8-star rating. I’d give it a five.

“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ‘free’ tour,” a very drunk man told me at a bar last night. “They’re probably just trying to sell you something.” Solid advice, honestly.


I’m trying to navigate the public transport system, which is…an adventure. The metro is easy enough, but the buses? Forget about it. I ended up going in completely the wrong direction yesterday and spent an hour wandering around a residential neighborhood trying to figure out where I was. I eventually stumbled upon a tiny, family-run bakery and bought a couple of empanadas. Best mistake ever.


I’ve been trying to find some good hiking trails near here. Apparently, there are some amazing cloud forests just a short distance away, but getting there is proving to be a challenge. I checked TripAdvisor and it seems like a lot of the trails are poorly marked or overgrown. Someone suggested hiring a local guide, which is probably a good idea.

I’m also trying to learn some basic Spanish. It’s…slow going. I can order coffee and ask for directions, but beyond that, I’m pretty much lost. I’ve been using Duolingo, but honestly, it’s not the most effective method. I need to find a language exchange partner. Maybe I’ll post something on a local Facebook group.

Oh! And the coffee. You have to try the coffee. It’s incredible. I found this little place in Belén called Pergamino Café. It’s a bit pricey, but the coffee is worth it. They roast their own beans, and the baristas are seriously passionate about their craft. I overheard a barista telling someone that the difference between a good cup of coffee and a great cup of coffee is all about the water temperature. Who knew? https://pergaminocafe.com/

I’m also checking out some local plant nurseries. I’m hoping to find some interesting epiphytes to bring back home with me. I found one near Envigado that seems promising. https://www.facebook.com/viveroslaverde/

Honestly, medellín is a bit of a sensory overload. It’s chaotic, it’s loud, it’s humid, and it’s…amazing. I’m still trying to figure it all out, but i’m having a blast. I’ll keep you posted.

And if you’re planning a trip here, my advice? Just go with the flow. Embrace the chaos. And definitely try the arepas. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g297416-Medellin_Antioquia_Department.html

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About the author: Olivia Dawn

Writing with intent and a dash of humor.

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