Lyon Is Not a Canvas, But It’s Trying to Be One
i don’t know how i ended up here. maybe the flight was cheap or maybe my brain just started revolving around spray cans and not cabins. either way, lyon’s current weather chart shows 7.1 degrees and feels like 6.26. that’s not a number, that’s a vibe. i just checked and it’s…there right now. hope you like that kind of thing. the cold seems to be holding court like it’s auditioning for a role in a dimly lit indie film.
let’s talk about the street. okay, not the left one. the one with the smear of graffiti behind that closed café. i saw a guy yesterday throwing paint like it was confetti. not artist vibes, more like someone spilling a milkshake on purpose. maybe he’s a street artist. maybe he’s a ghost. who knows. i heard that some local told me if you get too close to that wall, the ghosts demand a mural. i didn’t ask for more details. didn’t want to start a conversation.
the neighbors here aren’t exactly running circles around each other. they’re like… existing. i saw one watering a plant that looked like it belonged in a science experiment. another one yelling at a delivery person in what sounded like french but slower. if you get bored of this existential art show, the suburbs are just a short drive away. don’t think they’ll have the same low ceilings though. probably more judgment about noise complaints.
did i mention the reviews? not the actual ones from websites. the ones you overhear while wandering. someone at the market said lyon’s cafes pretend to be cozy but are just(codec) pretending not to smell like diesel and stale baguettes. another person claimed the museums here are just scraping the surface of history. i laughed because i’m pretty sure every museum in europe’s got that problem. but hey, maybe they’re being kind. or maybe they know we’re all just here for the weirdness.
the map says i’m near the old town, which is technically a lie. i’m somewhere between a tourist trap and a place where locals hate tourists. the streets here are a mess of contradictions. one minute it’s artists painting under a bridge, the next it’s a guy trying to film a dance routine with a broken phone. if you’re into that kind of breakdance, ask about the boulevard des SCCN where everyone seems to have a sword fight scheduled for tomorrow.
(quick aside: i found some images that might help visualize this. not professional, just… candid. one shows a market stall with vegetables that look like they’ve seen a ghost. another is a street sign tilted like it’s refusing to exist. and then there’s a couch that’s apparently decoration. you can see them here.)
check out the yelp reviews for more chaos. people write things like ‘the noise here is a spiritual awakening’ or ‘lost my phone but found enlightenment.’ i’m not sure if that’s a good thing. i’m also not sure why people are always mentioning codecs or enlightenment here. maybe it’s a lyon thing. anyway, the internet’s here. tripadvisor says this spot has ‘authentic vibes’ but also ‘unpredictable energy.’ i take both quotes with a grain of salt and maybe a bottle of wine.
the weather’s not helping my skin. it’s 90% humidity and the kind of dry air that feels like it’s swallowing your soul. i applied layer after layer of sunscreen and now my arms look like they’re wearing a rash. maybe it’s part of the lyon experience. maybe i’m just bad at surviving.
all in all, lyon is what happens when you take a city and decide to dress it like a confused teenager. the weather, the people, the ghosts in the walls-they all blend into one weird, lumpy thing. if you’re up for that, come see. but maybe bring a warm coat. or a new personality. you never know what you’ll pick up here.
[map here]
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