Lost in Dumaguete: A Botanist's Slightly Chaotic Field Notes
okay, so dumaguete. philippines. i’m still covered in what i think is pollen, but it could be something else entirely. honestly, i’m not even sure anymore. i just checked and it's…a humid blanket clinging to everything, punctuated by these sudden, brief downpours that smell like wet earth and something vaguely floral. hope you like that kind of thing.
I came here chasing rumors of a specific orchid - Dendrophylax lindenii, the ghost orchid. apparently, a few intrepid souls have spotted it in the surrounding forests. it’s a long shot, I know, but the possibility…it’s enough to drag a sleep-deprived botanist halfway across the world. plus, the coffee here is…well, let’s just say it’s fueling my obsession. I found this little place, 'Cafe Forti,' near the *university - seriously, the aroma alone is worth the trip. Check it out on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/cafe-forti-dumaguete.
I’ve been mostly wandering around, sketching plants, and trying not to get completely lost in the barangays. the locals are…interesting. i overheard this guy at the market, clearly several San Miguels deep, telling a friend, “Don’t go near the old church after dark, man. Something’s not right there.” Drunk advice, probably, but I’m taking it with a grain of salt…and a healthy dose of caution. I did find a surprisingly good vintage shop though, 'Second Bloom,' tucked away on Rizal Boulevard. They had some incredible embroidered textiles. I’m always on the lookout for unique patterns to inspire my botanical illustrations. TripAdvisor has a few reviews: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g1034873-d12345678-Reviews-Second_Bloom-Dumaguete_Negros_Oriental_Negros_Island_Visayas.html.
My accommodation is…rustic. Let’s just say I’m sharing a room with a family of geckos. They seem friendly enough, though. I’m staying near Robinson's Place, which is handy for grabbing supplies and escaping the rain. Someone told me that the best halo-halo in town is at a stall near the public market, but I haven’t managed to track it down yet. It’s on the list!
I spent a whole afternoon in the Negros Oriental State University botanical garden. It’s not exactly the Amazon rainforest, but it’s got a decent collection of native plants. I even saw a few Vanda orchids - not the ghost orchid, sadly, but still a win. I’m trying to document everything I see, but my notebook is filling up fast. I’m thinking of starting a blog specifically for my botanical adventures. Maybe I’ll call it “Rooted Ramblings.”
If you get bored, Siquijor and Apo Island* are just a short boat ride away. I’m planning a trip to Apo Island next week to check out the coral reefs. Apparently, the diving is incredible. I’m also trying to connect with some local botanists - hoping they can point me in the direction of that elusive ghost orchid. I found a forum for local plant enthusiasts: https://www.facebook.com/groups/DumaguetePlantLovers/.
Honestly, it’s a bit chaotic here. The heat, the humidity, the constant buzzing of insects…it’s overwhelming at times. But there’s also a certain…energy to this place. A sense of possibility. And the plants…oh, the plants! They’re everywhere, bursting out of every crack and crevice. It’s a botanist’s paradise, even if it’s a slightly sweaty, pollen-covered paradise. I’m also looking into some local tours, maybe something like this: https://dumaguetecity.gov.ph/tour-packages/.
I’m going to try and get some sleep now. The geckos are starting to get restless. Wish me luck in my ghost orchid hunt!
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