Kyoto and the Static in My Ears
okay, so kyoto. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i usually thrive in chaos, but this was a different kind of chaos. the kind that makes your fillings ache. i arrived a few days ago, and it’s been a blur of *temples and trying to find decent coffee (a struggle, let me tell you).
i just checked and it’s…damp. like, permanently. the air feels like a lukewarm washcloth. the weather report said 7.04 degrees Celsius, feels like 3.77, but honestly, numbers don’t even begin to cover it. it’s the kind of damp that seeps into your bones and makes you question all your life choices. the pressure is 1024, which, i guess, is normal? i don’t know, i’m a photographer, not a meteorologist. humidity’s at seventy percent, which explains the frizz.
i’ve been wandering around gion, trying to capture some of that “authentic” geisha district vibe, but it’s mostly tourists and people trying to sell you miniature daruma dolls. someone told me that the best time to see geishas is really* early, like before sunrise, but i’m not a morning person, okay? i need coffee for that. and good coffee is… elusive. i did find a tiny place near the kamo river, though. it’s called “bean there, done that” (i’m not kidding) and the barista looked deeply suspicious of me. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Coffee+Shops&find_loc=Kyoto is your friend here.
the neighbors are…intense. everyone is so polite, it’s almost unsettling. like, they’ll bow to you even if you accidentally bump into them. if you get bored, osaka and nara are just a quick train ride away. i overheard a group of backpackers complaining about the crowds at fushimi inari shrine. apparently, it’s “instagram ruined it.” classic. i’m planning on going tomorrow anyway, because i need the shot. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298566-d322365-Reviews-Fushimi_Inari_Taisha_Shrine-Kyoto_Kyoto_Prefecture.html has all the details, if you’re into that.
i’ve been trying to find some good vintage shops, but it’s mostly just expensive kimonos. i did stumble upon a tiny little record store tucked away in a side street. the owner was this super cool old guy who only spoke japanese, but we communicated through the universal language of vinyl. i picked up a rare pressing of a japanese psych-rock album. score! https://kyoto.live/vintage-shops-kyoto/ might help you find some treasures.
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i heard from a bartender that there’s a hidden jazz club somewhere in pontochō alley, but you need a password to get in. apparently, the password changes every night.
i’m starting to think kyoto is less a city and more a carefully curated aesthetic. it’s beautiful, sure, but it feels…distant. like you’re looking at a postcard instead of experiencing something real. i’m going to try and get lost tomorrow, wander off the beaten path, and see if i can find some of that realness. or at least a decent cup of coffee. i also read on a local forum that the bamboo forest is completely overrun with tourists now. https://www.reddit.com/r/Kyoto/ is a good place to check for current conditions. honestly, i’m exhausted. i need sleep. and maybe a dehumidifier.
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