Kochi: Rain, Rust, and Really Weird Fish

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm chai. i landed in kochi yesterday, and honestly, it’s… a thing. a beautiful, slightly unsettling thing. the humidity is clinging to everything like a damp *shawl* - feels like 33.14, temp’s hovering around 29.95, and the pressure’s a solid 1011. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s not bad, just… persistent.

my flight landed at the airport, which is basically a collection of corrugated iron and hopeful signage. i grabbed an auto-rickshaw - a truly terrifying experience - and ended up at this guesthouse near Fort Kochi. it’s called ‘The Rusty Anchor,’ which, let’s be real, is an accurate description. the owner, a guy named joseph, looks like he hasn’t slept properly since the 80s and speaks mostly in cryptic pronouncements about the tides.

first thing i did was wander down to the harbor. it’s insane. like, seriously, a sensory overload. there are these massive Chinese fishing nets - they’re huge, you know? - and they’re being hauled in by guys yelling in malayalam. and the smell… it’s a mix of salt, fish, and something vaguely floral, but also… something else. something a little bit rotten. i overheard a local telling another guy that someone told him the fish are getting smaller, and the nets aren’t catching as much. it’s a worry, apparently.

spent the afternoon exploring Fort Kochi. it’s a bit of a tourist trap, sure, but it’s got a cool vibe. there’s this old Dutch church with a really weird stained-glass window - it’s all shades of green and purple, and it looks like something out of a fever dream. i checked out TripAdvisor for some food recommendations and found a place called ‘Kerala Spice Garden.’ someone told me it’s the best seafood in town, but also that the prices are a little steep. i’m going to check Yelp later to see if i can find a cheaper option.

seriously, the food here is wild. i had this fish curry that tasted like… well, like a fish, but with a million different spices. it was intense. i’m pretty sure i sweat through my shirt. i’m thinking of hitting up that spice market tomorrow - apparently, it’s a riot of color and smells.

if you get bored, Trivandrum is just a short drive away. i heard that the beaches there are amazing, but also that the traffic is a nightmare. i’m not sure i’m brave enough to tackle it.

this evening, i stumbled upon a little street performance - a guy playing a sitar and singing traditional malayalam songs. it was surprisingly moving. i felt like i was getting a tiny glimpse into the soul of the city.

i’m staying at this guesthouse, it’s a bit rough around the edges, but the owner, joseph, makes a mean cup of coffee. he’s obsessed with collecting rusty objects - he has a whole room filled with them. it’s… a lot.

i need to find a decent internet connection. my data is dwindling faster than my sanity. i’m trying to upload some photos to my blog, but it’s painfully slow.

anyone know of a good co-working space in Kochi? i’m starting to feel like a digital nomad trapped in a monsoon.

“The sea remembers everything,” an old fisherman told me, staring out at the harbor. “Even the things we try to forget.”

seriously, the humidity is a beast. i’m considering investing in a dehumidifier. or maybe just a hazmat suit.

“Don’t trust the tourists,” a local shopkeeper warned me, handing me a mango. “They’ll tell you everything is beautiful. It’s not.”

okay, i’m officially exhausted. time for another chai and a nap. maybe i’ll try to find some more weird fish tomorrow.

check out this local board for events: https://www.keralatourism.com/kerala-events

and for more Kochi info: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g293547-Kochi_Kerala-Vacations.html

and if you're looking for a good place to eat: https://www.yelp.com/directory/kochi-restaurants

Kochi: Rain, Rust, and Really Weird Fish

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About the author: Arthur Webb

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