Long Read

Indore: Dust, Chai, and a Seriously Confusing Number

@Isabella Hart3/11/2026blog

okay, so i’m currently sweating through a t-shirt i probably shouldn’t have worn, and honestly, i’m not even sure why i’m in *Indore. it wasn’t on the itinerary. it wasn’t a ‘dream destination.’ it was…a number. 7279595. and then 1356097509. don’t ask. it’s a long story involving a lost bet, a questionable tarot reading, and a very insistent friend who’s a bit of a numerologist.


apparently, these numbers “vibrated” with a specific energy here. i’m a freelance photographer, not a mystic, but hey, free trip, right? plus, i needed to escape the relentless rain in
Mumbai.

i just checked and it’s…thick with humidity right now, like breathing through a warm washcloth. the weather report said 29.83 degrees Celsius, feels like 28.1, pressure’s at 1012, humidity’s a pathetic 20%, and the ground level is 947. honestly, numbers are just numbers. it
feels hotter. way hotter.


this place is…loud. not offensively so, just…constant.
Auto-rickshaws honking, vendors yelling about samosas (which, by the way, are incredible - seriously, find a street vendor and just go), and a general hum of life that’s both exhilarating and exhausting. i spent the morning wandering around Sarafa Bazaar, which is apparently a jewelry market by day and a street food paradise by night. i’m definitely coming back after dark.

blockquote>
“Oh, you’re staying near Chappan Dukaan? Be careful after ten. Apparently, there’s a guy who sells fake
jalebis filled with…well, let’s just say it’s not sugar.”
endblockquote

that’s what the guy at the chai stall told me. a chai stall, by the way, that serves the most amazing cardamom chai i’ve ever tasted. i’m pretty sure i’m addicted. i’ve already been back three times.

my accommodation is…basic. let’s just say it’s ‘characterful.’ the walls are thin, the fan is questionable, and i’m pretty sure i saw a gecko doing yoga on the ceiling. but it’s cheap, and it’s centrally located. plus, the owner, a lovely woman named Mrs. Patel, keeps offering me homemade
pakoras. i can’t say no to that. you can find similar places on TripAdvisor.


people here are…intense. in a good way. they’re incredibly friendly and curious, and they’re not afraid to ask questions. i’ve been stopped at least five times for impromptu conversations. someone told me that the best way to experience the city is to just get lost. and honestly, i think they’re right.

blockquote>
“Don’t bother with the fancy restaurants. The real food is on the streets. And always,
always bargain.”
endblockquote

that was a rickshaw driver’s advice. solid advice, i think. i also overheard someone complaining about the traffic on Yelp. apparently, it’s a nightmare during rush hour. i can believe it.


if you get bored,
Ujjain and Omkareshwar are just a short train ride away. i’m thinking of taking a day trip to Ujjain to see the Mahakaleshwar Temple. i’ve heard it’s incredible. you can find more info on Madhya Pradesh Tourism.

honestly, i still don’t understand the numbers. but i’m starting to understand Indore. it’s chaotic, it’s vibrant, it’s delicious, and it’s definitely an experience. i’m going to go find some more
samosas*. and maybe another cup of chai. and try to decipher the meaning of life, one number at a time. check out this local forum for more tips: Indore Talk.


You might also be interested in:

About the author: Isabella Hart

Sharing snippets of wisdom from my daily adventures.

Loading discussion...