Getting Lost in Querétaro's Backstreets

the first thing i noticed stepping off the bus in querétaro was the air-cool, damp, like it had just been rained on even though it hadn't. the weather app said 10°c with 79% humidity, which basically means you're gonna need that extra layer you thought you could leave behind. i just checked and it's hovering around there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.

wandered into the centro histórico without a plan, which is honestly how i prefer it. the streets twist in ways that make zero sense on google maps, and every corner has some random statue or church you've never heard of staring back at you. someone told me that the aqueduct is best seen at sunset, but i got there at noon and still thought it was pretty epic.

"you gotta try the gorditas de maís outside the market," a woman selling woven bags whispered to me. "the ones inside are for tourists."

followed her advice and holy hell, she wasn't wrong. the gorditas were 15 pesos and came with this weird green salsa that made my eyes water in the best way. if you get bored, guanajuato and san miguel de allende are just a short drive away, but querétaro feels like it's got enough going on to keep you busy for days.

randomly stumbled into a tiny gallery off calle corregidora where the artist was there in person, drunk on mezcal, telling anyone who'd listen that "real art isn't made in studios, it's made in the streets." i bought a weird little linocut print for like 200 pesos and now i have no wall space left at home.

heard from a barista that the best view of the city is from the cerro de las campanas, but you have to go at 6am unless you want to sweat your face off. i haven't done it yet, but it's on the list. also, apparently there's a speakeasy somewhere near the jardín zenea that you can only get into if you know the password, which changes every week. no idea if that's true, but it sounds like the kind of rumor that keeps a city interesting.

ended up at a bar called el atípico because the name sounded like something out of a novel. ordered a michelada and the bartender asked if i wanted it "with or without the secret ingredient." obviously i said with. no idea what it was, but it tasted like smoked chili and regret.

if you're planning to visit, don't bother with a rigid itinerary. querétaro rewards wandering, getting a little lost, and saying yes to whatever weird thing the next person suggests. and maybe bring a jacket, because that humidity is no joke.

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