getting lost in chiapa de corzo: a chaotic love letter

okay so i landed in chiapa de corzo and immediately regretted wearing jeans. the air is thick, like walking through someone's sauna, and my shirt is already stuck to my back. i just checked and it's 21.8°c there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.

i'm not even sure what i expected. maybe colorful colonial buildings? cobblestone streets? yeah, got those. but also got a bunch of stray dogs who seem to have better schedules than me, and a church bell that rings whenever it damn well pleases.

"don't trust the tacos from the cart near the fountain,"

a guy at the coffee shop told me. "that dude uses expired cheese." i ate there anyway. the cheese was fine. the salsa had a kick that made my ears ring for five minutes.

if you get bored, tuxtla gutiérrez and san cristóbal de las casas are just a short drive away. but honestly? i'd rather stay here and people-watch. the plaza is full of viejitos playing dominos like their lives depend on it, and teenagers pretending they're too cool for their abuelos.

i tried to find a good coffee spot and ended up in a place that smelled like cinnamon and old books. el cafetal on the corner had this weird painting of a jaguar wearing a sombrero. i asked the barista about it. she just shrugged and said, "art." fair.

here's the thing: chiapa de corzo doesn't try to impress you. it just is. and that's why i'm already halfway in love with it. the colors are muted but honest. the people are slow but kind. and the river? the río grijalva looks like it's been there since the beginning of time and will be there long after we're gone.

i heard from a drunk guy at a bar (don't ask which one, i lost track after the second michelada) that the best tacos in town are at a stand that doesn't have a name. just look for the guy with the mustache and the red apron. he's there from 8pm until whenever he runs out of meat. apparently he's been doing it for 30 years. his tacos are apparently legendary. i didn't try them. yet.

this isn't a guide. this isn't even a proper review. it's just me, sweating in chiapa de corzo, trying to figure out if i can stay another day or if i should keep moving. the humidity says stay. my flight says go. i'll let you know who wins.

if you're coming here, bring a hat. and maybe some antacid. and definitely an open mind. chiapa de corzo doesn't need your approval. it's just happy you showed up.

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