Dust & Echoes in Valparaiso: A Slightly Broken Trip
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on caffeine and regret. valparaiso, chile. it’s… a lot. like, a beautiful, crumbling, pastel-colored ‘a lot.’ i landed yesterday, and honestly, my brain feels like it’s trying to assemble a jigsaw puzzle with missing pieces and a really aggressive cat. the air smells like salt and something vaguely floral, maybe jasmine? it’s…there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
my flight was delayed, naturally. and then the taxi driver, this guy named Ricardo, kept trying to sell me alpaca sweaters. alpaca sweaters! in valparaiso! it’s like a fever dream. he kept saying, "Ricardo’s Alpaca Emporium - best prices in the city!" - seriously, the man was relentless. i ended up just nodding and pretending to be deeply interested. i need to find a decent coffee shop, stat. i’m craving something strong and bitter to counteract the alpaca assault.
I checked the weather - 13.17 degrees Celsius, feels like 11.17, pressure 1011, humidity 31. it’s…pleasant, i guess? not exactly beach weather, but not freezing either. perfect for wandering around those insane hills.
I’m staying in this little place - it’s basically a converted warehouse with a balcony overlooking the harbor. it’s called ‘El Refugio’ - which, translated, means ‘the refuge.’ ironic, considering my current state of panic. the owner, a woman named Sofia, gave me this crumpled map and warned me about the ‘pirate’s alley’ - apparently, it’s not actually pirate-related, but it’s full of dodgy characters and questionable street art. someone told me that the best empanadas are found near the Mercado Astoria - seriously, take that advice.
I spent the afternoon just getting lost. seriously, lost. i’m talking completely disoriented, staring at walls covered in murals, dodging stray dogs, and trying to decipher the local signage. it’s chaotic, but in a strangely captivating way. i stumbled upon this tiny little bar - ‘La Taberna del Viejo’ - it was packed with locals, all shouting and laughing. i ordered a pisco sour (obviously) and listened to the conversation. it was mostly about football and politics, but i caught snippets of gossip about a famous artist who lives in a house painted entirely in shades of purple. i heard that he only accepts payment in vintage vinyl records. wild.
*Pro-Tip: Wear comfortable shoes. Seriously. Like, really comfortable shoes. Those hills are no joke. And bring a water bottle. You’ll need it.
Gear List:
Hiking boots (essential)
Camera (duh)
Portable charger (because my phone battery died within 3 hours)
Spanish phrasebook (my Spanish is…rusty)
Sunscreen (the sun is brutal)
* A healthy dose of skepticism
I found this amazing little shop selling vintage postcards - it’s called ‘Postales del Pasado’ - check it out: https://www.postalesdelpasado.com/. And for food, Yelp says ‘La Casona’ has the best seafood: https://www.yelp.com/biz/la-casona-valparaiso. TripAdvisor recommends ‘Meson Don Rojas’ for traditional Chilean cuisine: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298437-d1238333-Reviews-Meson_Don_Rojas-Valparaiso_Regiona.html.
If you get bored, Santiago is just a short drive away. I’m thinking of heading there tomorrow to check out the Museo Nacional.
I overheard a group of backpackers talking about a hidden speakeasy behind a laundromat - they said it’s called ‘El Secreto’ and you have to know the password. Apparently, it’s ‘lavanda’ (lavender). I’m going to try and find it tomorrow. Wish me luck.
Honestly, this place is just…weird. In the best way possible. It’s like stepping into a movie set, but it’s real. And it’s exhausting. But I wouldn’t trade it for anything. (Okay, maybe for a full night’s sleep.)
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