Dust & Dim Sum: Lost in Oaxaca City
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on caffeine and regret. like, seriously, i haven’t slept properly in… well, let’s just say it’s been a while. but oaxaca? oaxaca is a beautiful mess. i landed yesterday, and honestly, it’s like stepping into a really, really good fever dream. the air smells like roasting corn and something vaguely floral - probably the mezcal, let’s be real.
I’m staying in this little place - it’s basically a converted courtyard, super dark, and the landlord, Miguel, keeps leaving me these tiny clay figurines. he’s a quiet guy, just nods a lot. someone told me that he used to be a puppeteer, but i haven't seen any puppets yet. it’s… unsettling, in a charming way. the humidity is clinging to everything, like a persistent, slightly judgmental friend. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 1017 pressure, 57 humidity - feels like a sauna wrapped in a blanket.
Spent the morning wandering around the zocalo. it’s insane. like, a thousand people, street vendors hawking everything from mole negro to hand-woven textiles, mariachi bands blasting - it’s a full-on sensory assault. i grabbed some tlayudas - giant, crispy tortillas piled high with beans, cheese, and salsa. pure heaven. i also stumbled upon this amazing little workshop where they make traditional alebrijes - those brightly colored, fantastical animal sculptures. seriously, the detail is wild. i almost bought a tiny, iridescent hummingbird. almost.
I’m trying to keep a list, but my brain is already leaking out of my ears. here’s what i’ve got so far:
Camera Gear: Canon 5D Mark IV (duh), 35mm f/1.4, 50mm f/1.4, a couple of speedlights (because i’m a disaster), and a ridiculously large backpack.
*Essentials: Sunscreen (seriously, the sun is brutal), bug spray (the mosquitos are vicious), a phrasebook (my spanish is… rusty), and a portable charger (because i live for the ‘battery low’ notification).
*Food:* Mole negro, chapulines (grasshoppers - i tried them, don’t judge), mezcal (obviously), and endless amounts of chocolate.
I overheard some drunk advice from a guy at the bar last night - he said to definitely check out the Mercado 20 de Noviembre. “It’s where the real oaxaca lives,” he slurred, “but watch out for the pigeons. They’re territorial.” Apparently, it’s a chaotic, vibrant market with incredible food and crafts. I’m planning on hitting it up tomorrow.
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Guadalajara is just a short drive away. I’m trying to find a decent coffee shop - the ones here are… interesting. Mostly just strong, dark, and slightly bitter. I need a proper espresso. I found a place called “El Café de la Luna” - it’s supposed to be good, but the reviews are mixed. Something a local warned me about - “the owner is a grumpy old man, but the coffee is worth it.” wish me luck.
I’m also trying to track down some vintage clothing. Oaxaca is a treasure trove of textiles and traditional garments. I spent a couple of hours in this amazing shop called “Tejidos del Alma” - they had the most incredible hand-woven shawls and blouses. I ended up buying a beautiful embroidered huipil (a traditional blouse). It’s a little itchy, but it’s gorgeous.
Seriously, this city is exhausting, but in the best way possible. It’s a beautiful, chaotic, utterly captivating place. I’m going to try and get some sleep (if that’s even possible). Check out TripAdvisor for some more recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g150791-Oaxaca_Oaxaca_State-Vacations.html and Yelp for some local eats: https://www.yelp.com/directory/oaxaca-oaxaca-state.
And if you're looking for more local events, check out this community board: https://www.facebook.com/groups/OaxacaEvents/
Okay, I’m signing off. Need more coffee. And maybe a nap. goodnight (or good morning, depending on where you are).
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/cold-air-and-curious-corners
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- https://votoris.com/post/sacramento-where-the-coffee-tastes-like-foggy-mornings
- https://votoris.com/post/latenight-cafs-sizzling-streets-my-messy-coffee-trip-to-rio-de-janeiro
- https://votoris.com/post/al-ayns-story-a-city-that-grew-up-between-the-dunes