Dhaka Diaries: Dust, Curry, and Questionable Rickshaw Rides

okay, so. dhaka. wow. just…wow. i’m still picking bits of something out of my hair, i think. it’s not sand, exactly. more like… pulverized ambition? i don't know. i’m a botanist, not a philosopher.

I just checked and it's hovering around thirty-two degrees celsius with a feels-like of thirty, and the humidity is clinging to everything like a desperate ex. Pressure’s steady, though, at least. That’s something, right? I’m sweating just thinking about it.

I came here chasing rumors of some incredibly rare orchid, Dendrobium dhakaense, apparently only found in a few pockets around the city. Spent a week traipsing through parks and gardens, dodging scooters and trying not to make eye contact with the pigeons. They’re… intense.

Honestly, the whole place is a sensory overload. The smells! Oh god, the smells. A glorious, chaotic mix of exhaust fumes, jasmine, spices, and something vaguely…fermented. It’s not unpleasant, exactly. Just… a lot. I’m pretty sure my olfactory system is permanently altered now.

I stayed in Mirpur, which was… an experience. My guesthouse was run by a lovely woman named Fatima, who kept trying to feed me things I couldn’t identify. She kept saying, “Good for the skin, beta!” I think it involved lentils. And possibly insects. I politely declined most of the insect-containing offerings.

“Don’t trust the auto-rickshaw drivers near Gulshan. They’ll quote you triple the price, then try to take you to their cousin’s souvenir shop.”

That was drunk advice I overheard at a tiny tea stall. Apparently, it’s a common scam. I ended up walking a lot. My feet are screaming. I should have brought better shoes. Note to self: invest in sturdy, waterproof boots for future expeditions.

I did find a few interesting plants, though! Not the Dendrobium I was after, sadly. But I spotted some gorgeous Impatiens niamensis growing wild in a roadside ditch. Who knew? It’s amazing what you can find if you just look down.

Someone told me that the National Museum is surprisingly good, but I didn’t have time. I was too busy trying to navigate the traffic and avoid getting run over by a goat. Seriously, goats everywhere. They just wander around like they own the place. Which, honestly, they probably do.

If you get bored, Chattogram and Rajshahi are just a short bus ride away. I didn’t make it, but I heard they’re… different. Less chaotic, maybe? I’m not sure. I’m starting to think chaos is just dhaka’s natural state.

I spent a few hours wandering around *Old Dhaka, which was… intense. Narrow, winding streets, overflowing with people and goods. The air was thick with the smell of spices and street food. I tried some jhal muri - puffed rice with spices and chili - it was amazing. And incredibly spicy. I’m still feeling the burn.

I checked out some reviews on TripAdvisor - mostly complaints about the traffic and the heat. But also a few people raving about the food. They weren’t wrong. I also found a local forum (https://www.dhakatribune.com/) that had some interesting discussions about urban gardening - maybe I can track down some local experts next time. And Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=Dhaka%2C+Bangladesh) has a surprisingly decent list of restaurants, though the reviews are… varied.

I also stumbled across a really cool street art scene near Uttara. Some seriously talented artists are working there. I wish I’d brought more film. I’m definitely going back.

“The best way to experience Dhaka is to just… let go. Don’t try to understand it. Just be* in it.”

That’s something a local warned me about. And he was right. Trying to make sense of dhaka is a fool’s errand. Just embrace the chaos. And bring a lot of hand sanitizer. And maybe a helmet.

Oh, and check out this guide to Bangladeshi cuisine: https://www.tasteatlas.com/bangladeshi-cuisine. You’ll need it.

I’m already planning my return trip. Next time, I’m bringing a translator, a better camera, and a serious supply of mosquito repellent. And maybe a goat-wrangling expert.

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