Copenhagen & The Case of the Missing Drumstick
okay, so copenhagen. it’s…a lot. i’m a touring session drummer, right? usually, i’m chasing gigs, not canals, but my agent (bless her chaotic soul) booked me a week “off” between festivals. “recharge,” she said. “find inspiration,” she said. inspiration found me in the form of a surprisingly aggressive seagull and a very confusing pastry.
first off, the weather. i just glanced outside and it’s…sort of a grey-blue hug right now, with a hint of “might drizzle later.” it’s not cold cold, more like a persistent chill that settles in your bones and makes you crave cinnamon. the locals seem to thrive on it, though. they’re all biking around looking effortlessly cool in their waterproof everything. i, meanwhile, look like a confused tourist who raided a vintage shop. which, to be fair, i did.
speaking of vintage, i spent a solid afternoon getting lost in the shops on Vesterbro. seriously, it’s a rabbit hole. i found this amazing leather jacket that smells faintly of mothballs and regret, and a pair of boots that have clearly seen some things. the shop owner, a woman named Astrid, told me (after i’d already bought everything) that the jacket used to belong to a famous jazz musician. naturally.
but back to the drumming. i’ve been trying to find some open mic nights, just to keep my chops up, but it’s proving…difficult. someone told me that the jazz scene is super exclusive and you need an “in.” apparently, you have to know someone who knows someone who once shared a beer with a legendary saxophonist. it’s ridiculous. i checked out this forum and it seems like a lot of people have the same problem.
my neighbors, if you can call them that, are mostly other tourists and a lot of very stylish danes. if you get restless, Malmö is just a quick train ride away, and i’ve heard Hamburg is worth the trip too. i overheard a couple arguing in a cafe about the best smørrebrød place - apparently, it’s a serious topic. they were debating between Schønnemann and Restaurant Palægade. i’m leaning towards Palægade, based purely on the fact that the name sounds fancier. you can find some reviews on TripAdvisor.
and the pastries. oh, the pastries. i tried a kanelsnegl (cinnamon snail) yesterday and it changed my life. it was warm, gooey, and utterly decadent. i’m pretty sure i’m addicted. i also attempted to order a coffee, which resulted in a lengthy and confusing exchange with a barista who spoke approximately seven languages, none of which were easily understandable to me.
“apparently, the seagulls here are trained to steal your pastries. it’s a local tradition.”
that’s what a guy at a *pub told me, anyway. he was also very insistent that i try a local beer called Mikkeller. it was…strong.
and the drumstick? well, that’s a whole other story. i was practicing in a park (yes, i brought my sticks) and one of them just…vanished. i swear, a seagull swooped down and snatched it. i’m starting to think these birds are organized. i’ve been looking for a replacement at local music* stores, but no luck so far. i found this shop but they don't seem to have what i need.
“don’t trust the swans. they look innocent, but they’re ruthless.”
that was Astrid, the vintage shop owner. she’s a wealth of information, that woman.
so yeah, copenhagen. it’s weird, it’s wonderful, and it’s definitely keeping me on my toes. i’m off to find more pastries and maybe, just maybe, a new drumstick. check out Visit Copenhagen for more info. i'll update if i find that stick. or get attacked by a swan.
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