Cartagena, Colombia: Humidity, Hallucinations, and Seriously Good Arepas
okay, so. cartagena. wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling, honestly. i’m a botanist, right? I’m supposed to be all about appreciating ecosystems and the delicate balance of nature. and cartagena? it’s an ecosystem alright. a sweaty, vibrant, slightly chaotic one.
I just checked and it's…a thick, clinging blanket of moisture right now. The kind that makes your hair frizz instantly and your sunscreen feel like a necessary life support system. The temperature’s hovering around twenty-four degrees, feels like twenty-five, and the humidity? Ninety percent. You’ve been warned. I’m pretty sure my camera lens permanently fogged up.
I was here scouting locations for a potential documentary about the resilience of coastal plant life - specifically, how mangroves are adapting to rising sea levels. Sounds dry, I know. But cartagena…it’s anything but. The old city is insane. Like, a postcard exploded and then got covered in bougainvillea. Seriously, everywhere you look, there’s this riot of color. Pink, orange, purple…it’s almost overwhelming.
I spent a ridiculous amount of time just wandering, getting lost in the maze of cobblestone streets. I stumbled upon this tiny courtyard with a fountain and a cat sleeping in the sun. It was pure magic. I also stumbled upon a street vendor selling the most incredible arepas. Seriously, if you go to cartagena, you have to eat arepas. I’m talking cornmeal cakes stuffed with cheese, meat, beans…whatever your heart desires. I had one with shredded beef and plantains that nearly brought me to tears.
I overheard some drunk tourists complaining about the heat. Honestly, they were missing the point. The heat is cartagena. It’s part of the experience. Embrace it! Drink lots of water. Wear a hat. And don’t try to rush anything. Things move at a different pace here.
Someone told me that the Getsemaní neighborhood is where it’s at for nightlife. Apparently, it’s a bit rough around the edges, but the music and the energy are incredible. I didn’t make it there myself this time, but it’s definitely on the list for next time. I did spend an evening at a rooftop bar overlooking the old city. The view was breathtaking.
I also heard that the Castillo San Felipe de Barajas is a must-see. Apparently, it’s a massive fortress with incredible views of the city. I’m a sucker for a good historical site, so I’ll probably check it out next time.
If you get bored, Barranquilla and Santa Marta are just a short bus ride away. I didn’t have time to explore them this trip, but I’ve heard good things.
*Pro-tip: Learn a few basic Spanish phrases. It will make your life so much easier. And be prepared to haggle. Seriously, everything is negotiable.
Another pro-tip: Don’t drink the tap water. Stick to bottled water or purified water. Your stomach will thank you.
And one last thing:* Cartagena is a city of contrasts. It’s beautiful and chaotic, vibrant and crumbling, luxurious and impoverished. It’s a place that will challenge you, inspire you, and leave you wanting more.
I’m already planning my return trip. Maybe I’ll even bring a dehumidifier.
Check out TripAdvisor for more info, or Yelp for restaurant reviews (though, honestly, just try everything). And if you're looking for local events, this board might be helpful.
Oh, and one more thing a local warned me about: watch out for the stray dogs. They’re cute, but they can be a bit aggressive.
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