Birmingham's Grey Days & Even Greyer Pigeons (But Honestly, It's Growing On Me)
okay, so birmingham. it wasn't exactly top of my "places to spontaneously combust into wanderlust" list, but here we are. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i chase the light (or lack thereof) wherever the gigs take me. this one was a bit…unexpected.
first impressions? a lot of brick. a lot. and pigeons. seriously, the pigeons here have a swagger i haven’t seen since i accidentally wandered into a jazz club in new orleans. i just checked and it’s…damp, perpetually, with a sort of clinging mist that makes everything look like a moody film noir. the weather report said eleven degrees, but it feels like ten-point-four-eight, which is just rude. the humidity is practically begging to condense into a second birmingham. pressure’s at one thousand and four, which, honestly, feels about right for the weight of all this history.
i’ve been trying to find some decent coffee, and let me tell you, it’s a mission. someone told me that “the place near the bullring is alright, but don’t ask for oat milk, they’ll look at you like you’ve insulted their grandmother.” which, fair enough. i’ve been relying heavily on instant, which is a photographer’s shame, but needs must.
“apparently, there’s a secret underground rave scene happening in the old railway tunnels. but you need to know a guy who knows a guy who used to be a signalman.”
that’s what the bloke at the pub told me last night. a pub, by the way, that smelled overwhelmingly of wet dog and regret. it was…authentic. i’m trying to capture the city’s grit, you know? the stuff that isn’t on the postcards. i’ve been wandering around the canals, which are surprisingly peaceful, despite the constant drizzle. i found this cool little vintage shop near the *custard factory - seriously, the name alone is worth the trip. Check out some reviews on Yelp.
i overheard a conversation about the Balti Triangle - apparently, it’s the birthplace of the balti curry. i’m definitely going to investigate. i heard that “you haven’t lived until you’ve had a balti at shababs, but be prepared to queue.” sounds promising. i’ve been looking at some local photography groups on this Birmingham forum to see if i can connect with other creatives.
the people here are…reserved. but friendly enough once you get them talking. if you get bored, coventry and wolverhampton are just a short train ride away. i’m thinking of taking a day trip to stratford-upon-avon, just for a bit of shakespearean air. TripAdvisor has some good day trip ideas.
i’m staying in a tiny airbnb above a chip shop. the smell of fried potatoes is… pervasive. but it’s cheap, and it has wifi, so i can’t complain. i’m starting to think birmingham isn’t so bad after all. it’s not glamorous, it’s not postcard-perfect, but it’s real. and sometimes, that’s exactly what you need.
“don’t go near the canal towpath after dark, apparently there’s a bloke who dresses as a scarecrow and tries to sell you rusty spoons.”
that one came from the airbnb host. i’m not sure if i believe it, but i’m definitely being cautious. i’ve also been reading up on the industrial history* of the city - it’s fascinating. The Birmingham Museum & Art Gallery looks like a good place to start. i’m thinking of doing a series of photos documenting the city’s changing landscape. wish me luck. and send coffee.
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