Berlin Bleeds: Rain, Rumors, and Really Bad Currywurst
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 584649… 1031581655. doesn’t even begin to describe the last 72 hours. the humidity is clinging to everything like a damp wool blanket - 72% and rising, i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the pressure’s a little low too, 1012, which makes my ears feel like they’re about to pop. it’s a weird, heavy feeling, like the city itself is holding its breath.
berlin. it’s… a lot. i landed at brandenburg airport - which, honestly, felt like a slightly depressing IKEA showroom - and immediately got swallowed by the grey. the rain started immediately, a persistent, drizzly kind of rain that just is. it’s not dramatic, it’s not romantic, it’s just… there. and it’s perfect.
my mission? find the weird. the forgotten. the places where the city still feels like it’s breathing. i’ve been wandering around kreuzberg, mostly, which is a glorious, chaotic mess of street art, vintage shops, and people who look like they’ve just stepped out of a Wes Anderson film. i stumbled upon this tiny currywurst stand - the guy was yelling at pigeons - and the currywurst was… an experience. let’s just say i’m not sure i’ll be seeking it out again. someone told me that the best currywurst is actually in millemotiv, but i haven’t had a chance to check it out yet.
*gear list (because i’m a professional, obviously):
my battered Leica M6 (still kicking, mostly)
a ridiculous amount of film (portra 400, naturally)
a perpetually damp waterproof jacket
noise-canceling headphones (essential for surviving the u-bahn)
a notebook full of scribbled nonsense and half-formed ideas
a very, very strong coffee habit
overheard gossip (from a guy nursing a beer at a bar in friedrichshain): "don’t go to alexanderplatz. it’s… sterile. and full of tourists. unless you’re into that sort of thing, you know? i heard that the best techno is still playing at [Berghain], but getting in is like trying to climb mt. everest with a bag of marshmallows."
seriously, if you’re looking for something to do, check out this cool little record store in neukölln: https://www.vinylgroove.de/. and if you’re feeling brave, try to find a decent döner kebab - it’s a surprisingly competitive market. i’m still searching.
pro-tip: don’t trust anyone who tells you the best way to see berlin is by bus. it’s a lie. embrace the chaos. get lost. you’ll find something amazing.
if you get bored, potsdamer platz and mitte are just a short drive away. i’m not saying you should* go, but… well, you could.
and finally, a little something from Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/ - for when you need to find a place to hide from the rain and contemplate the meaning of currywurst.
okay, i’m going to go find another coffee. and maybe a new pair of socks. this city is wearing me down. but in a good way, i think. a really, really messy way.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/porto-alegre-rainy-days-and-hot-nights
- https://votoris.com/post/chasing-light-in-saharsa-a-freelance-photographers-messy-diary
- https://votoris.com/post/brazzaville-that-time-i-tried-trading-a-busking-hour-for-a-pill
- https://votoris.com/post/new-york-city-frozen-fingers-questionable-bagels
- https://votoris.com/post/cazengas-hidden-corners-what-a-street-artist-really-thinks