Berdyansk: Salt, Steel, and Seriously Cold Air
okay, so berdyansk. it’s…a place. i ended up here because, honestly, the train ticket was cheap and i needed to get away. i’m a freelance photographer, and usually i’m chasing light in *tuscany or something equally picturesque, but sometimes you just need grey skies and the smell of brine, you know?
this place feels…stuck in time, but not in a charming way. more like someone paused a movie halfway through and just walked off. the weather? i just checked and it’s…actively trying to freeze your eyeballs, apparently. 3.39 degrees Celsius, but feels like -1.05. which, let me tell you, is a vibe. a very specific, “i need three layers and a hot drink” vibe. the air pressure is kinda weird too, 1021, and the humidity is making everything feel damp.
i spent most of yesterday wandering around the port. it’s dominated by this massive steel plant, which is… imposing. it’s also the source of a lot of the city’s jobs, apparently. overheard some guys in a cafe talking about it - something about strikes and unpaid wages.
"Don't trust the fish markets, they inflate the prices for tourists. Go to Babushka Anya, she's on the side street near the old lighthouse."
that’s what some dude with a truly magnificent mustache told me. i haven’t found babushka anya yet, but i’m determined. the fish markets do seem a bit…aggressive.
i tried to find a decent coffee shop, but it was a struggle. ended up at this place called “U Yulii” - it’s on Yelp, but the reviews are…mixed. someone said the barista looks perpetually disappointed in your life choices. they weren’t wrong. the coffee was okay, though. strong. i needed strong.
the neighbors? well, mariupol is a bit of a drive away, if you're looking for something a little more lively. i heard that people go there for the nightlife. i also heard that the roads are terrible, so pack accordingly.
i’ve been trying to photograph the sea, but it’s just…grey. endlessly grey. it’s not bad, it’s just…monochromatic. i’m thinking of trying some long exposures tonight, see if i can capture some of that mood. i found a forum about Berdyansk on TripAdvisor - mostly people asking about sanatoriums and mud baths. apparently, that’s a big thing here.
someone warned me about the stray dogs. apparently, they’re friendly, but they’ll steal your sandwich if you’re not careful. i haven’t encountered any sandwich-stealing dogs yet, but i’m keeping a close eye on my burek.
i also stumbled upon this little antique shop near the train station*. it was crammed full of weird stuff - old cameras, porcelain dolls, rusty tools. the owner, a tiny woman with a surprisingly loud voice, told me the city used to be a major trading hub. you can find more info about the history of the city on Wikipedia.
"The best borscht in town is at the market, but you have to ask for 'Babushka Olga's special'. Don't mention my name!"
that was a whispered secret from a guy selling sunflower seeds. i’m definitely going to try and find babushka olga’s borscht. i’m starting to think babushkas run this town.
honestly, berdyansk isn’t going to win any beauty contests. but it’s…real. it’s gritty. it’s cold. and sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. i'm checking out a local art collective tomorrow, found them on Facebook. wish me luck. and maybe send a hat.
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