Algiers: Dust, Dates, and a Drummer's Dilemma

okay, so algeria wasn't exactly on my 'must-hit' list, honestly. it was a last-minute thing. a cancelled gig in marseille, a ridiculously cheap flight, and a vague memory of someone saying the food was insane. plus, my kit needed a break from the usual european haunts.

landing felt…different. not bad, just…thick. the air tasted like *sand and something sweet, maybe dates. i just checked and it's hovering around eighteen point nine degrees, but it feels cooler, like seventeen point nine, which is weird. the pressure is a bit wonky too, apparently one thousand and eight, but honestly, i'm more concerned with finding a decent coffee than atmospheric pressure right now.

my hotel is in the kasbah, which is…an experience. think narrow, winding streets that smell of spices and exhaust fumes. it's beautiful, chaotic, and i'm pretty sure i've already walked in circles five times. the walls are all whitewashed, but stained with years of life. i overheard someone saying the best place for mint tea is near the mosque, but also that you need to haggle hard.

"Don't trust anyone who offers to 'help' with your luggage. They'll want a fortune!"

that was old man youssef, the guy who runs the little shop next door. he mostly sells rugs and stares intensely. he also warned me about pickpockets, which, fair enough. i've been keeping my wallet tucked inside my socks just in case.

finding places to play is proving tricky. the music scene isn't exactly booming with requests for a touring session drummer. i did stumble across a little jazz club - Le Dôme - https://www.yelp.com/biz/le-dome-algiers - but the owner just looked at me like i'd sprouted a second head when i asked if i could sit in. apparently, they're very particular about their musicians. someone told me that the best live music is actually found in the smaller, more hidden cafes around the port, but you need to know someone to get in.

food-wise, though? incredible. i had tagine last night that nearly brought me to tears. seriously. and the dates…oh, the dates. i've been living on them and strong coffee. i found a little place on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g230084-Algiers.html that everyone raves about, but honestly, the best meals have been the ones i've stumbled upon by accident.


*Gear I'm regretting not bringing: earplugs (the city is loud), a phrasebook (my french is rusty), and a portable charger (my phone is dying constantly).
*Pro-tip: learn a few basic arabic phrases. it goes a long way.
*Another pro-tip: be prepared to get lost. it's part of the charm.


if you get bored, tunisia is just a short ferry ride away, i think. i overheard a couple of backpackers talking about it. they said it's cheaper and even more chaotic. i also heard that the police can be a bit…enthusiastic about checking passports, so keep yours handy.

my humidity is at forty-one percent, which explains the slightly sticky feeling. the ground level is nine hundred and twenty-five, whatever that means. i'm starting to think i should have brought my botanist* friend, she'd probably have an explanation for everything. i'm thinking of checking out the national museum of antiquities tomorrow https://www.lonelyplanet.com/algeria/algiers/attractions/national-museum-of-antiquities/a/poi-sig/403844/360041 - i need a break from the sensory overload. and maybe, just maybe, i'll find a place to bang on some drums.

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