Tangier's Static & the Smell of Mint Tea

okay, so tangier. it’s…a lot. i didn’t really plan on tangier, honestly. it was a last-minute “let’s just go” fueled by too much espresso and a vague desire to avoid actual responsibilities. i’m a freelance photographer, which basically means i chase light and interesting faces, and tangier definitely delivers on both.

first off, the weather. i just looked and it’s…holding onto a chill, like a stubborn ex. the temperature’s hovering around 1.5 degrees celsius, but it feels like -5.3. the air is thick with humidity - eighty-one percent, apparently - and there’s this constant pressure, like the city itself is breathing down your neck. it’s not unpleasant, just…present. the sea level pressure is 1008, and the ground level is 889, which honestly, doesn’t tell me much except someone was very thorough with their measurements.

i’ve been wandering the *medina for days, getting gloriously lost. it’s a labyrinth of tiny streets, overflowing with spices, leather goods, and people trying to sell you things. it’s exhausting and exhilarating all at once. i’ve been trying to capture the light filtering through the alleyways, the faces of the vendors, the sheer chaos of it all. it’s a photographer’s dream, but also a test of patience.

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"apparently, if you buy anything from the first shop you see, you’re basically announcing to everyone that you’re a tourist. and a gullible one at that."
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that’s what an old guy selling rugs told me, after i admired a particularly beautiful one. he then proceeded to offer me mint tea and a “special price.” i think i still overpaid, but the tea was good. speaking of tea, you can’t walk five feet without someone offering you mint tea. it’s a social ritual, a sign of hospitality, and a surprisingly effective bargaining tactic.

i overheard someone at a cafe complaining about the noise. apparently, the call to prayer at dawn is…intense. i haven’t experienced it yet, but i’m bracing myself. someone else warned me about the stray cats. they’re everywhere, apparently, and while mostly harmless, they’re not afraid to steal your lunch. i’ve already spotted a few eyeing my pastries with suspicion.

if you get bored, chefchaouen is just a few hours away by bus. i haven’t been yet, but i’ve seen photos of the blue-washed buildings and it looks incredible. i’m thinking of heading there next. i checked out TripAdvisor and the reviews are…mixed, as always. someone said the kasbah is a must-see, but another person warned about pickpockets. you know, the usual. i also found this local forum Tangier Forum which seems pretty active.

i tried to find a decent hammam* (traditional bathhouse) but the recommendations were all over the place. i heard that one place is super touristy and overpriced, while another is “authentic” but also potentially…sketchy. i ended up going to a small, local one based on a recommendation from the guy who sold me the rug (again, probably overpaid). it was…an experience. let’s just say i’ve never been scrubbed so vigorously in my life. you can find more info on Yelp Yelp Tangier.

honestly, tangier is a sensory overload. it’s chaotic, gritty, and beautiful all at the same time. it’s not a place for the faint of heart, but if you’re looking for an adventure, it’s definitely worth a visit. i’m already planning my next trip back. maybe i’ll even learn to haggle properly. Lonely Planet has a good overview if you want to read up before you go.

Tangier's Static & the Smell of Mint Tea

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About the author: Chloe Weaver

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