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takamatsu for broke students (it's actually kinda awesome)

@Topiclo Admin3/21/2026blog

i've been in takamatsu for three days now and my wallet is literally crying tears of joy? maybe not. i took an overnight bus from tokyo that cost 3,200 yen - a total steal for a *budget student like me. the bus was freezing, like they kept the AC on full blast even though it was november and the outside temp was supposedly 7.45°c according to my phone. feels-like my butt was going numb. i survived by stealing a blanket from the seat pocket (don’t tell anyone). arrived at takamatsu station at 5am, shivered until the hostel opened. my hostel is a capsule hotel near the station, which is perfect because i can't afford taxis. the air here is something else: i just checked the weather and it’s 7.45°c with a humidity of 86%, so the feels-like is 6.03 - basically it’s a damp freezer. i didn’t pack enough socks and i’m regretting it every day.

first order of business: ritsurin garden. i got there at sunrise, which is free entry before 9am. this garden is massive, like 75 hectares of meticulously raked gravel, ponds, and pine trees twisted into weird shapes. i someone told me it was designed to be viewed from a boat, but i just walked the paths and was still blown away. the stillness was broken only by a few old guys doing tai chi. i sat on a bench and ate a convenience store onigiri, feeling fancy. here’s a map of the area so you can plan your own route:


the garden gave me a good vibe, so i headed to takamatsu castle next. it’s right next to the garden, just across the moat. the castle keep isn’t original (it’s a concrete reconstruction) but the stone walls are legit. i paid the 300 yen to go up the viewing platform - actually i didn’t, i just looked from the outside. saved that cash for udon. because let’s be real, i came here mostly for the udon.


udon in takamatsu is a religion. i tried three different places:

- kagawa udon nakamura: 500 yen for a huge bowl of kake udon (noodles in hot broth) with a bit of green onion. simple, slurpy, perfect. the guy there didn’t speak much english but pointed at the menu. i pointed at the cheapest item. win.

- udon sanuki: a bit more touristy, but they offer tempura on top for extra. i got a tempura one for 800 yen. the tempura was crispy, not soggy, which is rare for cheap places.

- 100-yen udon corner near the station: it’s a self-service stall where you toss your 100 yen coin into a machine, get a token, and exchange for a bowl. the noodles were thinner, but still edible. i went there twice.

i also discovered shottsuru (a local aged fish sauce) that you can add to your udon for an extra kick. it’s an acquired taste, but i kinda love it.

now about those mysterious numbers: my hostel booking code was 1858667 (i still have the confirmation email). then when i tried to call the udon place to ask about closing time, i messed up the number and dialed 1392003344 instead. a sleepy voice answered in japanese, i panicked and hung up. later i tried to look up that number online and found a reddit post saying it belonged to a mango farm in some remote village. maybe i was one digit off? who knows. randomness like that is part of the charm.

the weather here is all over the place. overnight low was 7.45°c, and daytime high barely reached 9.08°c. humidity hovers at 86%, so the feels-like usually sits around 6.03°c. the barometric pressure reads 1023 hpa at sea level and 1010 at ground level - i have no idea what that difference means, but it sounds like i’m under a blanket of air. hope that’s your scene.

neighbors? if you get bored, a short ferry to okayama is just an hour away and you can see korakuen garden, one of japan’s top three. or you can take a local train to matsuyama and soak in dogo onsen, the oldest hot spring in japan. both are totally doable as day trips. i haven’t done either yet because i’m too busy eating udon.

overheard gossip at the hostel: i heard that there’s a secret onsen hidden behind the train station - you have to find an unmarked door near the lockers and say a password. sounds like an urban legend, but i’m tempted to try. also, a freelance photographer staying there claimed that the best spot for sunset over the seto ohashi bridge is from the park on the eastern side around 5:30pm. i’ll be there with my phone, trying not to drop it in the water.

pro tips: always carry cash (like at least 10,000 yen), because many small shops don’t take cards. also, buy a portable wifi or get a data sim; google maps saved me when i got lost in the backstreets. and seriously, wear waterproof shoes - the streets get wet and slimy. also, learn to say “sumimasen” and “arigatou gozaimasu” - it’ll get you farther than you think.

if you’re planning a shoestring trip to japan, takamatsu is a solid base. it’s cheap, the people are friendly (even if they don’t speak english), and the udon alone is worth the trip. just watch out for those random numbers* that might haunt your phone contacts.


oh, and before you ask: yes, i’ll be back. next time i’m bringing my own towels and maybe a friend who speaks japanese. until then, sayonara?

for more itinerary ideas, see the takamatsu tourism guide. if you’re looking for hostel deals, check out hostelworld's listing. also browse tripadvisor's top attractions and don’t trust the yelp ratings for udon because everyone’s taste is different.

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About the author: Topiclo Admin

Writing code, prose, and occasionally poetry.

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