Santiago: Where the Air Smells Like Rain and Regret (Probably)
okay, so. santiago. chile. i’m still kind of buzzing, honestly. it’s been…a lot. i landed a few days ago, and the first thing that hit me wasn’t the altitude (though that’s definitely a thing) but the smell. like, damp earth and something vaguely floral, but also…a little melancholy? i just checked and it’s drizzling a persistent, grey sort of drizzle right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s not exactly sunshine and rainbows, but it’s got a certain…charm.
I’m here ostensibly scouting locations for a friend’s indie film - something about a lost poet and a stray dog. sounds pretentious, i know, but the pay’s decent and the scenery is…well, it’s something. i’ve been wandering around *Bellavista, mostly. it’s chaotic, loud, full of street art and tiny restaurants overflowing onto the sidewalks. it’s the kind of place where you feel like you’re constantly about to bump into someone famous, or at least someone who thinks they’re famous.
I spent a good chunk of yesterday getting hopelessly lost in Cerro Santa Lucía. the views are incredible, obviously, but the park itself is…weird. like, a lot of random statues and fountains and little hidden pathways. i stumbled upon a group of older guys playing dominoes, and they just stared at me with this intense, silent judgment. it was unsettling, to say the least.
“Don’t trust the pigeons,” a woman slurred at me from a doorway. “They’re spies for the government.”
I’m not sure what to make of that. probably just the wine talking. but it did make me look at the pigeons a little differently.
Food-wise, i’ve been living on empanadas and pisco sours. seriously, the pisco sours here are next level. i found this tiny bar in Lastarria - check it out on Yelp if you’re ever in the area - and the bartender makes them with this homemade ginger syrup. it’s dangerous, but delicious.
I’m trying to be responsible and do some actual scouting, but it’s hard when there’s so much to see and do. i spent an hour just watching a street performer juggle flaming torches in Plaza de Armas. it was…impressive, i guess? and slightly terrifying.
“The best coffee is in a place called ‘Café del Pueblo’,” a local warned me, leaning against a lamppost. “But be prepared to wait. The owner argues with everyone.”
I’ll have to check that out. i need caffeine. desperately.
If you get bored, Valparaíso and Viña del Mar are just a short drive away. i’m thinking of taking a day trip next week. i’ve also been looking at some tours on TripAdvisor - apparently, there’s a really cool vineyard tour that involves horseback riding. that could be fun.
Okay, quick pro-tips, because i feel like i should offer something useful:
*Learn some basic Spanish. seriously. it’ll make your life so much easier.
*Be aware of your surroundings. petty theft is apparently a thing.
*Embrace the chaos. santiago is not a tidy, predictable city. it’s messy and loud and a little bit overwhelming, but that’s part of its charm.
*Try the completo at a rotisserie. you won’t regret it. (it’s like a loaded hot dog, but way better.)
*Don’t be afraid to get lost.* some of the best discoveries happen when you’re wandering aimlessly.
I’m off to find that coffee shop now. wish me luck. and maybe send some sunshine.
Lonely Planet Chile
Chile Travel Guide
Santiago Tourism Board
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