Sanandaj Diaries: Cold Air, Warm Hearts
okay so i'm sitting here in sanandaj, and let me tell you, the air is biting. i just checked and it's -3.93°c right now, feels like -7.68°c. hope you like that kind of thing. i mean, it's the kind of cold that makes your nose hairs freeze, but somehow the people here make it feel warm anyway.
i heard from a guy at a tea shop that the best kebab in town is at *sardasht restaurant on shohada street. he said, "if you don't eat there, you're missing the soul of sanandaj." i believed him, so i went. and yeah, it was legit. tender meat, fluffy rice, and a side of stories from the owner about the old bazaar days.
"the bazaar isn't just for shopping, it's for living,"
an old woman told me while we shared a cup of tea. she was right. the bazaar here is loud, colorful, and full of life. you can find everything from handmade carpets to spices that make your eyes water.
if you get bored, marivan and saqqez are just a short drive away. marivan has a lake that looks like it's straight out of a painting, and saqqez has ruins that make you feel like you've stepped back in time.
i also heard a rumor that the kurdish music nights* at the cultural center are unmissable. someone said, "it's like the mountains themselves are singing." i haven't been yet, but i'm planning to go tonight.
here's a quick list of things i've learned so far:
- always carry a thermos of tea
- the locals will invite you to their homes for dinner
- don't trust google maps in the old town
- the mountains here are perfect for a morning walk
so yeah, sanandaj isn't on everyone's radar, but that's exactly why it's worth visiting. it's raw, it's real, and it's got a heartbeat that you can feel in your chest. if you're into that kind of thing, you'll love it here.
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