San Sebastián: Salt, Rain, and Seriously Weird Locals
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. i landed in san sebastián yesterday, and honestly, it’s… a lot. the humidity is clinging to everything like a damp towel, and it’s 16.54 degrees outside - feels like 16.63, which is just… there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the air smells like the ocean and something vaguely fishy, which, you know, is pretty standard for a coastal town.
first things first, the pintxos. seriously, don’t even think about coming here without dedicating a solid chunk of your day to this. it’s not just tapas, it’s an experience. i spent like, three hours just wandering around the old town, popping into tiny bars and shoving pintxos into my face. someone told me that Bar Nestor is a must-try, but also that they’ll yell at you if you don’t order a drink with every bite. i’m not judging.
my hotel is…rustic. let’s go with rustic. it’s basically a converted warehouse with exposed brick and a surprisingly aggressive collection of succulents. the wifi is patchy, the showerhead is a little temperamental, but it’s cheap and it’s close to everything. i checked out a few places on Yelp - https://www.yelp.com/search?keyword=pintxos&location=San+Sebastian%2C+Spain - and there’s this place called La Cuchara de San Telmo that looks promising.
i overheard gossip from a guy at the bar last night - he was a fisherman, smelled strongly of brine and regret - that the best time to see the La Concha beach is at sunrise. apparently, the light is insane. i’m not a morning person, but i might have to make an exception.
speaking of the beach, La Concha is… well, it’s pretty. it’s like a giant, perfect crescent of sand, backed by a promenade lined with cafes and shops. it’s ridiculously touristy, but honestly, it’s kinda beautiful. i spent a couple of hours just sitting there, watching the waves and trying to figure out what i’d done with my life.
i’m trying to find some good hiking trails - i saw a sign pointing towards Monte Urgull, which looks pretty epic. i’m hoping for some decent views. i’m also desperately searching for a decent coffee shop. the ones here are… underwhelming. i need something with actual crema. i found a place called Gandarias that has a pretty solid reputation, https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g189491-d1234733-Reviews-Gandarias-San_Sebastian_Spanish_Basque_Country.html
if you get bored, Bilbao is just a short drive away. it’s a bit of a trek, but it’s worth it if you want to see some modern art. i heard that the Guggenheim is insane.
Someone told me that the best way to experience San Sebastián is to just get lost in the old town and see where the pintxos take you. Don’t overthink it. Just eat.
seriously, the locals are… interesting. they’re not unfriendly, but they’re definitely not overly chatty. they have this intense, slightly judgmental gaze that follows you around. i think it’s because i’m clearly a tourist. if you get bored, you can always try to strike up a conversation about football - it’s a big deal here. i’m also trying to figure out if i can convince anyone to teach me how to properly eat a pintxo. it’s a surprisingly complex process.
i just checked and it’s...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. i’m going to go find some more pintxos. wish me luck. and maybe send coffee.
i heard that the best place to watch the sunset is from the Miramar Palace. i’m planning on checking that out tomorrow.
i’m also trying to find a decent place to buy a souvenir. i need something that screams “i was in san sebastián” but doesn’t look like it was mass-produced in china.
i’m starting to think i need a nap. or three.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/networking-events-and-professional-communities-in-las-vegas-a-drummers-dive
- https://votoris.com/post/santo-andr-commute-times-are-you-ready-to-spend-half-your-life-in-traffic
- https://votoris.com/post/relocating-to-lusaka-a-checklist-scribbled-on-a-napkin-with-coffee-rings
- https://votoris.com/post/viterbo-a-medieval-maze-with-espresso-and-secrets
- https://votoris.com/post/bucureti-on-a-budget-surviving-the-chill-and-the-chaos