Rio de Janeiro: Humidity, Samba, and Questionable Street Food (Send Help)
okay, so. rio. right? everyone’s like, ‘rio! christ the redeemer! beaches!’ and yeah, it’s all that. but it’s also…a lot. i just checked and it’s clinging to you like a damp towel right now, hope you like that kind of thing. seriously, the humidity is a character in itself. it’s got opinions.
I’m a touring session drummer, so my life is usually a whirlwind of airports and slightly sticky club stages. this was…different. i was scouted for a gig - some weird corporate thing involving a samba band and a product launch for…industrial cleaning supplies? don’t ask. anyway, it landed me in *Rio de Janeiro.
I’m staying in Santa Teresa, which is…charming. in a crumbling, slightly overgrown way. the houses are all painted in these crazy colors, clinging to the hillside. it feels like a movie set that’s been abandoned halfway through filming. if you get bored, Niterói and Petrópolis are just a short drive away - both worth a look, honestly.
I spent a lot of time wandering around, trying to find decent coffee (a drummer needs caffeine, obviously). found a place called “Café do Alto” - pretty good, but the guy behind the counter kept trying to sell me a poncho. i think he thought i was going to melt.
“Someone told me that the best feijoada in the city is at Bar do Mineiro in Santa Teresa. Apparently, you have to get there before noon or you’ll be waiting in line for hours. Also, don’t ask for tap water - they’ll look at you like you’ve grown a second head.”
Speaking of food… i tried some street food. once. let’s just say i’m sticking to fruit for the rest of the trip. i heard that the pastel vendors near Copacabana Beach are a gamble. some are amazing, some…not so much. check out the reviews on TripAdvisor before you risk it. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g301903-Rio_de_Janeiro_State-Reviews-Restaurants.html
The music scene is insane, obviously. i caught a show at Lapa Arches - pure chaos, in the best possible way. samba, funk, some stuff i couldn’t even identify. it was loud, sweaty, and utterly exhilarating. you can find listings on this local board: https://www.rio.com/agenda/
“Drunk advice: don’t flash your phone on the beach at night. seriously. just don’t. it’s not worth it.”
I’m trying to find some vintage shops - my drummer wardrobe is…lacking. apparently, Glória* is the place to go. i’ll let you know if i find anything decent. Yelp has some leads: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=vintage+clothing&find_loc=Rio+de+Janeiro%2C+Rio+de+Janeiro%2C+Brazil
Honestly, it’s overwhelming. beautiful, chaotic, overwhelming. i’m exhausted. i need a strong coffee and a very long shower. and maybe a new poncho.
Oh! and something a local warned me about: the pigeons. they’re…aggressive. like, actively plotting against you aggressive. be careful.
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