my minneapolis dance diary: sore feet, cold wind, and weirdly good coffee

i just touched down at msp and the cold hit me like a reality check from my ballet teacher. pulled my hoodie tighter, dragged my suitcase over cracked sidewalk, and tried to remember where i parked the rental car (big mistake, i know). the sky's this dull leaden gray, and the wind's got a nasty little buzz that slices right through your cheap hoodie. i pulled up the weather app: 9.14°c, feels like 7.76°c, humidity 81%. basically, it's a damp cold that settles into your bones and laughs at your warm-up routine. i just checked and it's...well, it's still there, that kind of crisp that makes your nose run and your fingers numb. hope you like that kind of thing. i'm in town for a gig at a club that promised a 'pop-up dance night' - whatever that means. turned out to be a warehouse space with a sticky floor and a sound system that shook fillings loose. the organizers handed me a key to the green room (actually a former office closet) and a voucher for a free coffee at the place down the block. i took the coffee, because i need all the caffeine i can get before i shake through a three-hour set. the city itself is a sprawl of glass and brick, with the *Mississippi River cutting through like a silver scar. if you've never been, it's weirdly flat but has these sudden hills that make you gasp when you're running to a gig. i keep getting lost because the streets are named after presidents but they all look the same after a while. someone told me that the best way to get your bearings is to find First Avenue - the legendary music venue - and work outward. i did that, and ended up at a vegan diner that served sweet potato hash at 2am. that's the kind of town this is. here's a rough map of the area to give you an idea of the layout:

i've been crashing at a friend's apartment in Uptown. the neighborhood's a mix of vintage shops, overpriced juice bars, and stray dogs that think they own the sidewalks. there's a park nearby where i try to squeeze in a jog each morning, but the cold bites so hard it feels like my lungs are full of shards. i heard from a local dancer that the Bde Maka Ska loop is gorgeous in the summer, but right now it's just a frozen wasteland with a few die-hard paddleboarders still brave enough to test the water (don't ask). if you get bored, saint paul is just a light rail ride away - the dance community there is smaller but super tight-knit. i might check it out tomorrow. the club scene here is… interesting. i've danced in a lot of places, but minneapolis has this quirky mix of hipster dive bars and sleek lounges. someone told me that the afterhours at The Loring get wild after 3am - i stumbled in one night and found a contortionist performing on top of the bar. it was both mesmerizing and terrifying. another rumor: the studio at 45th and cedar has a sprung floor that's like dancing on clouds, but the owner is a former ballet dancer who'll kick you out if you wear sneakers. i learned that the hard way. always read the studio rules before you show up - that's my advice. i also tried to find a decent coffee shop that doesn't charge $6 for a pour-over. after asking around, i got pointed to Spyhouse Coffee on ____ avenue (i forget the name, but the one with the mural of a fox). the barista remembered my order after the second day, which felt like a tiny victory. they roast their own beans, and the smell alone could wake the dead. i linked up with a local dancer there and we exchanged routines. we talked about the weather - everyone here loves to complain about it, but secretly they're proud of surviving it. i heard that if you can handle a minneapolis winter, you can handle anything. that includes dancing on a stage that's basically an icebox. cost-wise, this city ain't cheap. my per diem barely covers instant ramen, but i've gotten smart: i buy groceries at Co-op and cook in the hostel kitchen (yes, i'm back in a hostel - saves cash and you meet other broken-bodied artists). i also found a free yoga class in the park on sundays. not bad. i've also discovered that the Nicollet Mall has free wifi and a bunch of food trucks at lunch. never carry a reusable water bottle? wait, that's bad advice. actually, always carry a reusable water bottle - tap water is fine and saves you from buying plastic. never trust a free massage - that's how you pull a hamstring. i've been using Yelp to scout cheap eats and found a taco truck that does $2 carnitas on tuesdays. life saver. Yelp's top cheap eats in Minneapolis. for touristy stuff, i usually trust TripAdvisor, but i take it with a grain of salt. TripAdvisor: Minneapolis attractions. locals also hang out on City Pages for event listings - that's where i found the pop-up gig. City Pages events. if you're into deeper local culture, check out Minnesota Monthly's food and drink guide - they've never steered me wrong. Minnesota Monthly. oh, and there's also a sneaky subreddit for twin cities music scene, but i'll let you find that on your own. anyway, i'm typing this from my phone in the green room before soundcheck. my feet are killing me, my back feels like a stack of toast, but i got a text from the promoter saying the crowd is already lining up. guess i better lace up my shoes and remember my choreography. one last thing: if you come to minneapolis, pack layers. the weather can swing from 'i'm sweating' to 'i'm dying' in an hour. and never skip your warm-ups - those cold floors are no joke. oh, and the view? we're right by the river. i snapped a few pics. check out this skyline from the Stone Arch Bridge*.

Minneapolis skyline from the Stone Arch Bridge at sunset

here's a shot of the coffee beans that keep me going.

freshly roasted coffee beans on a wooden table

and here's the river from the pier this morning.

that's about it. i'm off to dance. peace out.

my minneapolis dance diary: sore feet, cold wind, and weirdly good coffee

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