Memphis Mud & Misplaced Memories

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 4623560 and 1840013380 - don’t ask. it’s a thing. the humidity is clinging to me like a second skin, 87% and feeling like 21.44, honestly. it’s…there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the pressure’s at 1013, which is, like, normal for this place, apparently. 986 sea level. it’s weird.

I landed in Memphis yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stumbled into a blues documentary directed by a slightly confused raccoon. it’s gritty, it’s loud, it’s got a soul that’s been bruised and polished a thousand times. i’m staying in this tiny Airbnb - seriously, it’s basically a glorified closet - but the location is killer. right off Beale Street, which is…well, it’s Beale Street. you know the drill.

Spent the morning wandering around Overton Square. Found this amazing vintage shop, ‘Threads of Time,’ run by a guy named Silas who looks like he wrestled a badger and won. He gave me some seriously drunk advice about the best BBQ joint - apparently, Rendezvous is a must, but don’t tell anyone I said that. someone told me that the ribs are legendary, but also that the line stretches around the block. smart move, right? https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g30579-Memphis_Tennessee.html

Then, i stumbled upon this incredible mural project downtown. Seriously, the art scene here is popping. It’s like a giant, colorful explosion of everything Memphis. I’m trying to capture it all with my camera, but it’s a losing battle.

landscape photography of vehicles parked on side of a street

Speaking of cameras, my gear is a disaster. Lens cap lost, battery dead, memory card full. Classic. I’m relying heavily on my phone, which is probably a terrible idea. I need to invest in a decent backup. Seriously, a photographer’s nightmare. I’m thinking about getting a new Sony a7iii - maybe. It’s a big investment, but my Instagram feed is suffering.

Later, i checked out the Stax Museum of American Soul Music. It was…intense. Like, really intense. So much soul. So much history. I spent a solid hour just staring at Isaac Hayes’s old records.

Someone overheard told me that the museum’s audio experience is genuinely transformative, but be prepared for a serious dose of nostalgia.

I grabbed some food at Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken. Let’s just say it’s… spicy. Like, really spicy. I’m pretty sure I’m sweating through my shirt. I’m also pretty sure I’m going to need a gallon of milk.

a chandelier hanging from a ceiling next to a window

My neighbors are…interesting. There’s this old blues musician who plays his guitar on the porch every night, and this family who’s constantly arguing about something - I think it’s about the proper way to deep-fry catfish. If you get bored, Nashville is just a short drive away. It’s a weird mix of Southern charm and urban grit.

I’m heading to Graceland tomorrow. I know, I know, it’s touristy. But I’ve always been fascinated by Elvis. Plus, I need some good content for the blog. I heard that the tour guides are surprisingly knowledgeable, but also prone to rambling.

Golden brown biscuits baked in a cast iron skillet.

Seriously, the humidity is a beast. I’m considering investing in a dehumidifier. Or maybe just moving to Iceland. But then I wouldn’t get to write about Memphis. It’s a tough decision. I’m also trying to find a decent coffee shop. This place I stopped at just serves lukewarm instant. Ugh. I need a proper espresso. https://www.yelp.com/directory/coffee-shops/memphis-tn

Okay, I’m officially exhausted. Time for another cup of coffee (hopefully a good one) and then…more exploring. This city is a mess, but it’s a beautiful mess. And I’m loving every chaotic second of it.

Memphis Mud & Misplaced Memories

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About the author: Emma Hayes

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