Lost in the Labyrinth: A Whirlwind in Baku
okay, so baku. where do i even begin? it feels like someone spilled a box of jewels and old carpets all over a city. i’m honestly still trying to process the whole experience. the numbers swimming around in my head - 4156091 and 1840028983 - they just appeared randomly. i think the universe is trying to tell me something, but i’m not entirely sure what. maybe it's a phone number? a serial number to some ancient artifact? who knows.
The weather…well, i just checked and it’s… a humid hug, clinging to you all day. it’s like someone turned up the saturation on the air. they say it’s warm, but "warm" doesn't quite cut it when it’s 19 degrees Celsius feeling like 19.07, with 90% humidity. you're pretty much perpetually damp. the pressure is 1019, which is basically just a fancy way of saying “it’s not going to rain…probably.” the ground level is 1018, a strange distinction. I’m not sure what it means, but it adds to the weirdness.
i spent most of my time wandering the old city, *Icheri Sheher. it’s a maze. a glorious, breathtaking maze of winding alleys, ancient walls, and unbelievably colorful buildings. it's the kind of place where you happily get lost. and i did. repeatedly. i found myself in tiny courtyards with overflowing flower boxes and the scent of spices hanging in the air. the locals are… polite. reserved, maybe. i heard someone say - someone told me that - to be wary of overly friendly vendors selling "genuine” Azerbaijani carpets. apparently, they're very good.
Food: Oh. My. God. The plov! literally the most incredible rice dish i’ve ever had. and the bakeries… don't even get me started. i’m pretty sure i single-handedly kept a local bakery in business. Dolma is a must-try too. honestly, i'm going to need a week of halva to recover from all the deliciousness.
Gear for wandering:
Comfortable shoes. seriously.
A reusable water bottle (you’ll need it!).
A small backpack.
A phrasebook (even if you only learn “thank you” and “where is the bathroom?”).
A portable charger - you’ll be taking a lot of photos.
I bumped into a group of students - probably from Azerbaijan State University - near the *Flame Towers. they were arguing passionately about something, but i couldn't understand a word. a local commented that the towers are a bit of a tourist trap, but they do offer some pretty spectacular views of the city. someone else warned me - a drunk advice - to avoid the taxi drivers near the main square. they tend to overcharge. i’m not saying it happened to me, but… let’s just say i ended up haggling like a pro.
The energy here is… intense. it’s a blend of ancient history and modern ambition. you see the remnants of a rich past alongside gleaming skyscrapers. if you get bored, Batum* is just a short drive away. I’m thinking about checking that out next. TripAdvisor has some good reviews and suggestions of things to do. Also Yelp has some good places for authentic food. and the Baku tourism website is a solid source for information.
Honestly, baku is a city that gets under your skin. it’s chaotic, it’s captivating, and it’s completely unforgettable. i'm already planning my return trip. now, if you'll excuse me, i’m going to go find some more plov. and maybe decipher that phone number.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/manado-mayhem-humidity-hidden-spots-and-a-whole-lot-of-questions
- https://votoris.com/post/kagoshima-diaries-volcanoes-satsuma-ware-and-that-weird-fish-market
- https://votoris.com/post/oslos-a-blur-frozen-fingers-and-fishy-rumors
- https://votoris.com/post/damascus-its-complicated
- https://votoris.com/post/childcare-costs-and-options-in-canagatan-a-messy-real-talk-guide