Long Read

Kon Tum: Rainy Coffee Shops and Ghosts in the Highlands

@David Vance3/12/2026blog
Kon Tum: Rainy Coffee Shops and Ghosts in the Highlands

kon tum hit me like a humid blanket. the numbers 1587871 and 1704968278? no idea what they mean-maybe coordinates, maybe just random numbers that stuck in my head while i was sipping bad instant coffee at 4am. the weather's 17.83°C, but feels like 18.18°C, which basically means 'slightly damp sweater weather' and the humidity is 96%. so yeah, it's sticky out there. i just checked and it's basically a cloud with legs walking around right now, hope you like that kind of thing.


first thing i noticed: nobody here seems in a rush. people sit for hours in little cafés with ceiling fans that barely move the air. i heard from a local that the best coffee is at *cafe long on nguyen hue street-he said it's 'so strong it'll make your teeth vibrate.' sounded like drunk advice to me, but i went anyway. it was legit.


kon tum's not a big tourist spot, which is exactly why it's worth it. if you get bored,
pleiku and quy nhon* are just a short drive away, but honestly? i'd stay here and wander the riverside market instead. someone told me the night market is 'meh' but the grilled corn is 'life-changing,' so i tried it. the corn was fine, the vibe was better.

"Don't trust the bus schedules here,"

a backpacker said to me in broken vietnamese.

"They'll tell you 3 hours, it'll be 5. Bring snacks."


i didn't bring snacks. i regretted it. but i did find a tiny bakery near the catholic cathedral that saved me. the cathedral itself is this weird, beautiful mix of roman and local architecture-looks like a gingerbread house built by a monk with wild ideas.


if you're into offbeat travel, kon tum's your spot. no shiny tourist traps, just real life with extra rain. check out tripadvisor for a few guesthouse options, but honestly? just show up and ask around. that's how i found my favorite spot-a homestay run by a grandma who didn't speak a word of english but made me eat until i thought i'd pop.

last thing: bring a rain jacket. or don't. either way, you'll get wet.


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About the author: David Vance

Writing is my way of listening.

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