Hachinohe: Static and Sea Salt (and a Really Weird Vending Machine)
okay, so hachinohe. it’s…a mood. i didn’t even plan on ending up here, honestly. the tour bus had a flat near *morioka, and everyone collectively decided to just…disperse. i ended up on the last local train, clutching my drumsticks and a half-eaten onigiri.
being a touring drummer means you get used to the unexpected. usually it’s dodgy hotel rooms or passive-aggressive sound guys, but this? this was different. it’s like the city itself is humming with a low-frequency energy. i just checked and it’s…uniformly five point six eight degrees celsius everywhere, apparently. no variation. kinda unsettling, right? and the humidity is stuck at seventy-nine percent. feels like you’re walking around inside a damp towel.
my Airbnb is above a tiny ramen shop. the owner, old man tanaka, doesn’t speak a word of english, but he keeps trying to feed me extra chashu. it’s a blessing and a curse. i’ve been wandering around the port area mostly. it’s all these weathered fishing boats and these huge, concrete breakwaters. it’s…brutal, but beautiful. i overheard someone at a sake bar saying the best seafood is at the morning market, but you have to get there early. like, before the sun even thinks about waking up.
“Don’t trust the vending machines near the station,” a guy with a seriously impressive tattoo sleeve told me. “They sell…things. Things you don’t want to know about.”
and he wasn’t kidding. i saw one that was just…full of used socks. i’m not even making that up.
*Gear I’m Glad I Packed: Noise-canceling headphones (essential for train travel), a portable charger (because outlets are a myth), and my trusty travel mug (for questionable convenience store coffee).
*Pro-Tip: Learn a few basic japanese phrases. Even just “arigato” and “sumimasen” go a long way.
*Another Pro-Tip: Don’t be afraid to get lost. Seriously. That’s where the good stuff happens.
if you get bored, aomori and morioka are just a quick train ride away. i’ve been checking out local gigs on this board: https://www.hachinohe-kanko.jp/en/. someone told me that the live music scene is surprisingly good, but it’s mostly cover bands playing 80s rock. i also saw a review on https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g303463-Hachinohe_Aomori_Prefecture-Vacations.html saying the hotel rooms near the station are tiny, but clean. i’m sticking with tanaka-san’s ramen shop for now.
i heard that the museum is worth a visit, but it’s closed on mondays. and apparently, the locals are super into snow festivals in the winter. i’m here in…whatever season this is. it’s just grey. all the time. you can find more info about the area on https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3970.html.
honestly, hachinohe isn’t glamorous. it’s not instagrammable. it’s just…real. and sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. i’m gonna go find some more ramen* now. and maybe avoid the vending machines. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Restaurants&find_loc=Hachinohe%2C+Aomori&ns=1 has some options, but i trust tanaka-san’s cooking more.
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