Long Read

Feodosia: Salt Air, Stray Cats, and a Seriously Chill Vibe

@Silas Dean3/14/2026blog
Feodosia: Salt Air, Stray Cats, and a Seriously Chill Vibe

okay, so feodosia. it’s…different. i wasn’t expecting it to hit the way it did. i stumbled in here chasing a rumor about a legendary secondhand bookstore (still haven’t found it, honestly), and now i’m kinda stuck? not in a bad way. more like, pleasantly marooned.

white and brown concrete building near body of water during daytime


it’s not exactly bustling. i just checked and it’s…a bit breezy, with the sun trying its best to peek through a layer of clouds. feels like eleven degrees, but honestly, the sea air makes it feel a little warmer, or maybe that’s just the cheap coffee i had. the humidity’s kinda high, like someone’s been simmering borscht nearby. the pressure’s normal, i guess? i don’t even know why i’m telling you this. i’m a *digital nomad and i’m losing it.

this place feels…lived in. not polished, not curated for tourists. it’s got this beautiful decay, you know? crumbling facades, stray cats everywhere (seriously,
everywhere), and the smell of salt and something vaguely floral. i spent yesterday wandering the Genuezskaya Krepost’ (the Genoese Fortress) - it’s pretty epic, even if half of it’s falling apart. you can find some info on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g238488-d268244-Reviews-Genoese_Fortress-Feodosia_Crimea.html.

someone told me that the best place for chebureki (fried pastries) is down by the harbor, but you have to ask for ‘Uncle Boris’ specifically. apparently, he makes them with a secret ingredient.

a view of a city from a mountain top


my neighbors are…interesting. mostly older folks, sitting on benches playing dominoes and judging me with their eyes. if you get bored,
Kerch and Sudak are just a quick marshrutka (minibus) ride away. i overheard someone complaining about the buses being perpetually late, though. Yelp has some reviews of local transport: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=transportation&find_loc=Feodosia%2C+Crimea.

i’ve been trying to find decent wifi, which is a struggle. apparently, the local internet provider thinks “high-speed” means “occasionally functions.” i’m relying on my mobile hotspot most of the time. pro-tip: get a local sim card. it’s way cheaper.

a guy at the market warned me about the seagulls. said they’re ruthless and will steal your food right out of your hand. he wasn’t kidding.

man fishing during daytime


i heard that the
Aivazovsky National Art Gallery is worth a visit, but i haven’t made it there yet. i’m more into wandering aimlessly and getting lost. i found a little cafe that serves amazing syrniki (cheese pancakes) - seriously, go there. it’s called “U Teti Ani” (Aunt Anya’s). you can find some local forums with recommendations here: https://crimea-travel.com/forums/feodosiya/.

honestly, feodosia isn’t for everyone. it’s not glamorous, it’s not trendy, it’s just…real. and sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. i’m gonna go get another coffee and try to decipher the local bus schedule. wish me luck. and if you ever find that bookstore, please,
please* let me know. https://www.booking.com/city/ua/feodosiya.en-gb.html has some hotel options if you decide to come.


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About the author: Silas Dean

Sharing snippets of wisdom from my daily adventures.

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