Long Read

Dust & Static: Lost in the Grey of Alor Setul

@Sophia Berg3/6/2026blog
Dust & Static: Lost in the Grey of Alor Setul

okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. like, seriously, the last time i checked, it’s...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 36.8 degrees, feels like 34.03, pressure 1009, humidity 11. it’s clinging to everything, you know? like a really persistent, slightly damp memory.

Alor Setul. it’s…a thing. a sprawling, slightly bewildered thing tucked away in Banten province, Java. i stumbled upon it mostly because my scooter decided it was done with the Bali highway and just…stopped. which, honestly, was probably a good thing. less traffic, more weirdness.

I’m staying in this guesthouse - ‘Rumah Pohon’ - which is basically a collection of bamboo huts clinging to a hillside. the owner, Pak Budi, keeps offering me jamu - herbal concoctions that taste vaguely of dirt and regret. i politely decline. mostly.

Spent the morning wandering around the *Pasar Beringharapan, the local market. it’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. mountains of spices, piles of batik fabric, chickens squawking, kids yelling…it’s chaotic, but it’s real. I snagged a batik sarong - bright orange with a pattern that looks suspiciously like a grumpy octopus. it’s going straight into my collection.

Someone told me that the
Museum Arkeologi Banten is worth a visit, but honestly, i was too busy trying not to get trampled by a herd of schoolchildren. I heard that the local warteg (small, family-run eatery) serves the best nasi goreng this side of Jakarta, so that’s on the list for tomorrow. I’m aiming for Yelp, but TripAdvisor seems to be the go-to for this area.

brown spider on green leaf in macro photography


Speaking of food, i’m seriously craving something with a bit of heat. I’m thinking sambal everything. I’m also desperately needing a decent cup of coffee. This place has…interesting…coffee. Let’s just say it’s an experience. I’m going to check out a local roaster - hopefully, they’re not just serving up burnt beans. Maybe a quick peek at this local coffee board?

My neighbors are…interesting. They mostly seem to be farmers and small shopkeepers. If you get bored,
Bintan Island is just a short drive away. They’re all incredibly friendly, though, and always seem to be offering me something to eat. I think they’re trying to fatten me up before i disappear completely. It’s a charming kind of paranoia, really.

I spent the afternoon exploring the
Masjid Agung Alun-Alun, the main mosque. it’s a beautiful building, with intricate carvings and a peaceful courtyard. I didn’t go inside, but just sitting outside and watching the locals go about their day was a pretty good experience.

brown and black jumping spider on brown soil in close up photography during daytime


Okay, serious question: does anyone know how to properly fold a batik sarong? i’m pretty sure i’ve just created a wrinkled, octopus-shaped mess. I’m starting to think i should just wear it as a cape.

I overheard some guys at the market talking about a hidden waterfall a few kilometers outside of town. They said it’s called
Air Terjun Citarum, and it’s absolutely stunning. I’m considering checking it out tomorrow, but i’m also pretty tired. Maybe i’ll just stick to nasi goreng.

brown and black jumping spider on brown soil in close up photography during daytime


Honestly, this place is just…weird. In a good way. It’s like stepping back in time, but with a healthy dose of scooter fumes and questionable coffee. I’m not sure what i’m doing here, but i’m kind of enjoying it. Maybe i’ll stay a few more days. Or maybe i’ll just keep wandering until i find another broken-down scooter. Either way, it’s an adventure.

Pro-tip: Bring insect repellent. Seriously. Like, a lot* of insect repellent. And maybe a spare scooter chain. Just in case.


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About the author: Sophia Berg

Exploring the intersection of technology and humanity.

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