Dust & Echoes in València: A Slightly Broken Trip
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 2327223… that’s the timestamp on my phone, i guess? and 1566922020 - some random number that just popped up. doesn’t mean anything, right? valència is… intense. like, aggressively beautiful intense. the air’s thick with something - salt, maybe, and the ghosts of oranges. it’s 26.02 feels like 26.02, temp min 26.02, temp max 26.02, pressure 1009, humidity 71, sea level 1009, grnd level 954. yeah, that’s the weather. it’s… there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
seriously, i’m not even sure where to start. i landed yesterday and immediately got lost trying to find my hostel. it was a maze of narrow streets, all terracotta and crumbling plaster. the sun was beating down like a judgmental parent, and i was sweating like a marathon runner who’d just finished a marathon. i ended up stumbling into this tiny tapas bar, ‘El Racó del Carme,’ and the owner, a guy named Miguel, just pointed me in the right direction with a shrug and a glass of something red.
that’s the vibe here, you know? no fuss, just good food and even better company. i’ve been wandering around the old city, getting hopelessly turned around, and generally just soaking it all in. the *Central Market is insane - a riot of color and smells. i bought a mountain of fruit and cheese, mostly because i was starving and also because it looked ridiculously photogenic.
someone told me that the best paella is found down by the harbor, but i haven’t braved the crowds yet. i heard that ‘La Pepica’ is legendary, but also ridiculously expensive. i’m sticking to the smaller places for now. i found this little spot near the Turia Gardens - it’s called ‘Casa Carmela’ - and the paella was actually pretty decent. not legendary, but definitely solid. i’m rating it a 7.5 out of 10. subjective, obviously.
and the people! they’re… loud. and passionate. and they argue about everything. i overheard a heated debate between two old men about the proper way to make horchata. it was fascinating, honestly. if you get bored, Madrid is just a short drive away, apparently. i’m not planning on driving, though. i’m sticking to the metro. it’s a chaotic, sweaty, and occasionally terrifying experience, but it gets you where you need to go.
Someone at the hostel (a guy named Liam who was trying to learn Spanish) said, ‘València is like a really, really old postcard.’ I think he was right. It feels like a place that’s been carefully preserved, like a museum exhibit. But it’s also alive. You can feel it in the streets, in the music, in the way people talk.
i spent this afternoon exploring the Ciutat Vella, the old city. it’s a labyrinth of narrow streets, filled with tiny shops and hidden plazas. i got completely lost, of course, but that’s half the fun. i stumbled upon this amazing little ceramics shop - the owner, a woman named Elena, was incredibly talented. she showed me some of her work, and i bought a small plate as a souvenir. it’s ridiculously impractical, but it’s beautiful.
i’m trying to document everything, obviously. my camera roll is already overflowing. i’m thinking of starting a series of photos called ‘València in Fragments.’ it’s a bit pretentious, i know, but i’m feeling inspired. i need to find a decent coffee shop to edit these photos, though. the ones i’ve been drinking are… questionable. i’m looking for something with a proper crema. maybe check out Yelp for recommendations.
i heard that the Central Station is a bit of a dive, but it’s the main hub, so you have to go. and the Mercado de Colón is a stunning building - a beautiful example of modernist architecture. i spent a good hour just wandering around inside, admiring the mosaics and the stained glass. it’s a bit overwhelming, but it’s worth a visit. i’m also planning on checking out the Oceanographic Valencia - it’s supposed to be one of the best aquariums in Europe. TripAdvisor says it’s amazing.
A local bartender (who looked like he’d seen everything) warned me to be careful near the Plaza de la Virgen* at night. Apparently, there are pickpockets. Just a friendly piece of advice, he said, with a wink.
honestly, i’m exhausted. i need to sleep. and maybe find a decent cup of coffee. and figure out what the heck that timestamp even means. but valència… valència is good. it’s messy, it’s chaotic, it’s beautiful. it’s exactly what i needed. i’m going to check out Valencia Tourist Office for more ideas.
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