Dust & Echoes in Valletta: A Slightly Broken Trip
okay, so, 110328. the timestamp is 1682370751. i’m pretty sure that’s some kind of code, but honestly, i’m running on fumes and lukewarm espresso. valletta. it’s… intense. like, aggressively beautiful intense. i landed yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stepped into a postcard that someone aggressively aged with sandpaper.
It’s 25.12 feels like 25.67. the pressure is 1008, humidity’s at 76 - which, you know, feels like someone’s gently patting you with a damp towel. sea level is 1008, ground level is 999. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. i’m not judging.
I’m a touring session drummer, so my priorities are generally finding a decent drum kit (seriously, this place is sparse on percussion) and decent food. the food’s been… okay. lots of rabbit. i’m not a rabbit person. i overheard a guy at the bar - he looked like he’d wrestled a badger and lost - telling me that the best pastizzi are at Pastizzeria La Valletta. someone told me that...it’s a legend. i’m skeptical, but i’m also starving.
I spent the morning wandering around the *Upper Barrakka Gardens. the view is insane, obviously. you can see the Grand Harbour stretching out like a bruised purple ocean. it’s kinda overwhelming, honestly. i felt like i needed a nap just looking at it. there’s this weird, constant drone of scooters and mopeds - it’s not unpleasant, just… persistent. it’s like the city’s perpetually buzzing with a low-level anxiety.
I tried to find a decent coffee shop, but everything seems to serve this weird, milky concoction. it’s not bad, per se, just… not coffee. i ended up at a place called Bean & Brew - it’s tiny and smells strongly of burnt sugar. the barista, a guy named Marco, looked like he hadn’t slept in a week. he gave me a shot of espresso that nearly blew my head off. it was… intense. i’m pretty sure he was judging my lack of Maltese.
I’m staying in this Airbnb - it’s basically a glorified closet with a view of a wall. it’s cheap, which is the main thing. i found it on Airbnb, of course. https://www.airbnb.com/ - always a gamble, right?
I walked down Republic Street last night. it’s a total sensory overload. hawkers, tourists, street performers… it’s like stepping into a slightly chaotic movie set. i saw a guy juggling flaming torches - it was terrifying and mesmerizing at the same time. i heard that the best gelato is at Gelateria di Birgu - i’m adding it to the list.
Speaking of lists, here’s the gear i’m currently wrestling with:
My battered drumsticks (obviously)
A ridiculously oversized backpack (seriously, where does all this stuff come from?)
Noise-canceling headphones (essential for surviving the scooter madness)
A portable charger (because i always run out of battery)
A phrasebook (i’m failing miserably at Maltese)
* A very, very strong sense of bewilderment
If you get bored, Sliema and St. Julian’s are just a short drive away. they seem a little less… intense. i checked Yelp and found a few decent restaurants. https://www.yelp.com/ - always a reliable source of questionable recommendations.
I’m starting to think i’m going to spend the entire trip just wandering around and trying to absorb the atmosphere. it’s exhausting, but also… kind of amazing. i’m not sure what i’m looking for here, but i think i’m finding it. or maybe i’m just desperately seeking caffeine and a decent nap. either way, i’ll keep you posted.
Oh, and one last thing: don’t trust anyone who offers you a “traditional Maltese coffee.” it’s probably just sweetened milk with a hint of despair.
“Just go with the flow, man. Valletta will chew you up and spit you out, but it’ll be a story worth telling.” - A very drunk local I met near the Three Cities gate.
Seriously, check out TripAdvisor for some more ideas. https://www.tripadvisor.com/
And if you're looking for something a little different, there's a cool street art scene happening in the backstreets - keep your eyes peeled.
“The best thing about Valletta is the light. It hits the limestone buildings just right, makes everything look… golden. But don’t tell anyone I said that.” - A photographer I overheard talking to himself near the Lascaris War Rooms.
Okay, i’m going to go find another espresso. wish me luck.
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