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Barranquilla: My Lens is Melting and So Am I

@Olivia Dawn3/11/2026blog

i've been in barranquilla for three days and i'm already sunburnt in places i didn't know could burn. the heat hits you like a wall-35°C out, humidity around 40%, and it *feels like 38 in the shade. my camera gear is literally too hot to touch after ten minutes. why did i think this was a good idea? oh right, the color. this city doesn't just splash color on walls; it throws it at you with a slingshot. i'm a freelance photographer, normally based in berlin, chasing that "golden hour" glow. here the golden hour is more like a blast furnace.

i'm crashing at a hostel near the map below-here's the rough area:


yeah, that's right, i'm in the caribbean coast of colombia, near barranquilla. the map doesn't show the smell-a mix of fried arepas, diesel, and salty sea air. it's a perfume that either makes you ravenous or nauseous, depending on how long you've been out.

my first morning, i dragged my tired self out to the mercado with a 35mm f/1.4, hoping for some candid street stuff. i shot like a maniac for maybe an hour before my camera gave me a low battery warning. i swear the heat drains batteries faster than my will to live. i ended up buying a coconut water from a dude with a machete (i wasn't sure if he was selling coconuts or offering to chop me). the water was sweet and lukewarm, just like everything else here.

someone told me that if i wanted to avoid the crowds, i should hit the mercado at dawn. i tried that-woke up at 5 a.m., only to find the place still buzzing with vendors unloading crates. i guess "dawn" is relative. the early light was worth it though; the building facades were still in that soft blue before the sun hammered everything flat. i got a few keepers before my lens fogged up from the humidity. i should've known better than to bring my vintage zeiss. next time, maybe a point-and-shoot with weather sealing-if there is a next time.

the locals are friendly in a way that's hard to read. they'll smile and invite you to try their fruit, but they also have a reputation for pickpocketing. i heard from a bartender at a nearby spot that the mercado is a minefield for tourists with cameras dangling. i'm keeping my strap tight. (by the way, if you want a drink that doesn't melt your insides, ask for "agua de panela" - it's like raw sugar water but it's all they have.)

i've been editing my photos on my laptop in the hostel's common area, which is basically a balcony overlooking the street. the wi-fi is slower than a sloth on sedatives, but it works. i've been using lightroom mobile because my laptop's ssd is full. i'm trying to decide which shots to send to the magazine that commissioned this piece. they wanted "authentic caribbean street life." i'm sending them my sweaty face selfie with a coconut as proof of authenticity.

here's a few images from my wanderings (i'm not in them, don't worry, i'm too ugly for the internet anyway):


that's the main strip near the rio magdalena. the colors are insane-you can't make this up. i saw a guy painting his house neon green because his neighbor painted theirs orange. it's like a competition. i love it.

another spot, the beach at santa marta about an hour east. i took a bus-cheap, but the bus driver seemed to think stop signs were optional. the beach was a relief: water warm, sand white, but the vendors are relentless. i bought a hat from a kid who could've been a pickpocket; he didn't rob me though. maybe i'm paranoid. maybe it's justified.


this was during a pre-carnival rehearsal. i heard from a local that the big carnival in february is when the city explodes with music and dancing. i missed it, but seeing these groups practice was almost as good. the costumes are ridiculous and awesome. i used a fast shutter to freeze the motion. the sunlight was harsh, but i overexposed a bit for the vibe.

i've been eating a lot of arroz con pollo* from a corner stall. the rice is soggy, the chicken is sometimes questionable, but it's cheap and fills the hole. i read a TripAdvisor review that said the stall i'm going to is "the best hidden gem." i'm not sure about hidden; it's right next to a gas station. but it's good.

i also tried the ceviche at mar y sol after seeing it raved about on Yelp. the acidity cut through the humidity nicely.

also, if you get bored of barranquilla's insane energy, cartagena's old town is like an hour east, or santa marta for that beach vibe. both are easy bus rides, just watch your bags. a friend of a friend told me that the bus between barranquilla and cartagena gets robbed occasionally-i didn't encounter that, but i kept my backpack on my lap. for up-to-date bus info, check the Barranquilla Transit Board.

i'm currently sitting in an internet cafe-because the hostel's power went out again-charging my camera batteries. it's 11 p.m. and still around 30°C. i don't think it ever gets cold here. they say the dry season is better but i'm here in july and it's hot and humid. i'd complain but i'm getting paid to take pictures, so i'll shut up.

anyway, i'm off to the mercado again tomorrow. i'll try to get there before sunrise, maybe. or maybe i'll just sleep in and avoid the heat. the light is good any time if you know how to spin it.

oh, and one more thing: the water isn't safe to drink. stick to bottled. i learned that the hard way on day one. never again.


this is the port area. i was told by a fisherman not to take pictures of the cranes because it's "security risk." i did anyway, from a distance. hope no one saw.

that's my barranquilla blur. i'm leaving in two days, part of me is relieved, part of me will miss the chaos. if you ever come, bring a sweat rag, a spare battery, and a strong stomach for fried food. and maybe a fan. the locals carry hand fans like it's 1800. i get it now.

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About the author: Olivia Dawn

Writing with intent and a dash of humor.

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