Baiona’s Midnight Cramps and 7-Degree Clarity
i’ve been walking around Baiona like i’m trying to solve a riddle someone threw at me from a distance. the air smells like damp concrete and old secrets, and the temperature? 7 degrees. i just checked and it’s there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. my body’s a weird mix of frozen and ‘i-have-no-idea-what-this-is,’ but i’m out here.
there’s this place called La Posada del Mar, which sounds official enough to be a scam. i haven’t stayed there, but someone told me that if you ask for a room early enough, the owner will give you a mattress on the floor and a bottle of water. maybe that’s true. maybe not. i heard that.
in the mornings, i wander to the beach. the waves are freezing, but there’s this spot where the rocks are so slippery you have to pretend you’re a climber even though you’re just trying to get a selfie. there’s a rumor that a scuba diver lost their snorkel here last week. didn’t see them. nobody here talks about that.
the neighbors? oh, they’re the kind of people who leave their door open and expect you to knock 10 times. yesterday, i saw a guy in a oversized flannel shirt feeding pigeons with a spoon. why? because he thought they were pigeons from another dimension. i’m not sure. i didn’t ask. maybe he’s right.
someone told me that the local café serves the worst coffee in the region. i drank it anyway. it tasted like regret and existential dread. but hey, i also got a free pastry. maybe that’s worth it. if you get bored, the cliffs near the coast are better than any town for a mind-melt. stand too close to the edge and the wind will swear you’re a ghost. i almost believed it once.
i found this map while trying to decide where to go next. it’s not a real map. it’s a doodle on a sticky note that smells like Permanent Marker and bad life choices.
here are some pictures i took. they’re probably terrible. i’m bad at this whole ‘good photo’ thing. the first one is a lighthouse that looks like it belongs in a horror movie. the second is a random bench with a single flower. the third is me pretending i’m not freezing.
reviews here are like whispered advice from people who’ve already left. i heard that the street performer near the square is a exorcist in disguise. others say he’s just a guy with a guitar and a lot of regret. i didn’t see him. i was too busy trying to figure out why the Wi-Fi kept dropping. maybe it’s a curse. maybe it’s just bad internet.
if you’re thinking of coming here, don’t ask for directions. just follow the smell of salt and confusion. you’ll find Baiona. trust the chaos. and if someone warns you about the haunted beach, take it as a compliment. it’s probably true.
i ended up sleeping in a hostel with a broken AC. the room was colder than the outside. i dreamed about a lighthouse. i woke up and checked the weather again. 7 degrees. still here. still confused.
p.s. check out https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g123456-Baiona_Galicia.html if you want to avoid the mattress-on-the-floor scenario. or don’t. i’m not your dad. https://www.yelp.com/biz/la-posada-del-mar-baiona https://www.reddit.com/r/Baiona/ remember that this place is small. everything here is loud, cheap, or both. you’ll figure it out. probably.
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