Back to Feed
Long Read

Windy Nights in Addis Ababa: Drumming Through the Highlands

@David Vance3/12/2026blog
Windy Nights in Addis Ababa: Drumming Through the Highlands

the air was thin and the sky felt closer here, like i could almost touch the stars if i stood on my drum riser. landed in addis ababa after a 14-hour flight, and my first thought was: this place hums differently. not just the music-the altitude, the energy, everything. 17.84°c but felt like 16.41°c, so yeah, bring a jacket even if it looks sunny. low humidity at 28% means your lips will crack faster than you can say "buna."

i'm here drumming for a west african fusion band on tour, and tonight's gig is at a place called Fendika Cultural Center. heard from a taxi driver that it's where the real ethiopian jazz cats hang. he also said to avoid the "tourist traps" near bole road unless i want overpriced injera and sad vibes.

walking around, the streets are a mess in the best way-colorful, loud, honking like it's a competition. found a tiny coffee stall where the guy roasted beans over charcoal and the smell hit me like a memory i never had. someone told me the best coffee in town is at Tomo Cafe, but honestly, this street corner brew was better.

if you get bored, dire dawa and bahir dar are just a short drive away, but tbh, addis deserves at least 4-5 days. the mercato is wild-biggest open market in africa, or so i heard from a vendor who tried to sell me a "rare" drum he swore was handmade by his great-grandfather. probably wasn't, but i bought it anyway.

"You haven't seen addis until you've danced to a live masinko at 2am,"

said a local musician i met at a rooftop bar. he wasn't wrong. the nightlife here doesn't start until midnight and doesn't stop until the sun threatens to rise.

weather-wise, it's been weirdly perfect for walking-cool breeze, no rain, just enough sun to keep you guessing. i just checked and it's 17.84°c there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.

staying in a guesthouse run by a family who keeps feeding me doro wat even when i say i'm full. their grandma told me stories about the derg regime while we drank tea. heavy stuff, but real. that's the thing about addis-it's not trying to be cute or polished. it just is.

for food, Yod Abyssinia is supposedly the spot for traditional dancing and platters, but i heard mixed reviews-some say it's too staged, others love the energy. guess it depends on your mood.

if you're into history, the national museum is worth it just to see lucy. yeah, that lucy. and the holy trinity cathedral? stunning. quiet. made me forget i was in a city for a minute.

random tip: download the app "Ride Addis" for transport. taxis here don't use meters, so you'll be negotiating like it's a sport.

anyway, tonight i'm playing, tomorrow i'm hiking entoto mountain if my lungs cooperate. this city doesn't let you be a passive observer. you feel it in your chest, in your feet, in the way your snare drum sounds just a little sharper up here.

Addis Ababa cityscape with mountains in background

Ethiopian coffee ceremony in traditional setting

Street scene in Addis Ababa with colorful buildings

You might also be interested in:

About the author: David Vance

Writing is my way of listening.

Loading discussion...