Ushuaia: Where the Wind Bites and the Penguins Judge
okay, so i’m back from ushuaia. and wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling off layers of damp, and my fingers are permanently numb, but it was worth it. seriously. i’m a botanist, right? so, obviously, i went looking for weird plants. and i found some. but mostly, i found wind. relentless, biting wind. i just checked and it’s currently a damp, grey sort of day, with a breeze that feels like it’s personally offended by your existence. hope you like that kind of thing.
I’d been hearing whispers about this place for ages - the “end of the world,” the southernmost city. It’s got this…vibe. Like the world just kind of stops here. And the penguins. Oh, the penguins. They’re everywhere. Staring. Judging. I swear one of them gave me a particularly withering look when I tried to photograph a particularly stubborn patch of moss.
I spent a lot of time wandering around the *beagle channel. It’s… vast. And cold. I almost lost a glove. Someone told me that the boat tours are a must, but they’re also ridiculously overpriced. I ended up hitching a ride with a local fisherman - a gruff but surprisingly friendly guy named Ricardo. He smelled strongly of fish and diesel, but he knew all the best spots for spotting seals. He also gave me some very drunk advice about avoiding the stray dogs near the port. Apparently, they’re territorial.
“Don’t make eye contact with the dogs. Seriously. Just…don’t. They’ve got a vendetta against tourists, or so I’ve heard.”
I was trying to find some Ulex europaeus (gorse, for those who don’t know) - it’s surprisingly resilient and pops up in some unexpected places. No luck there, sadly. But I did stumble upon a tiny, hidden botanical garden near the Museo del Fin del Mundo. It was a little oasis of calm amidst all the wind and penguin chaos. Definitely worth a visit. Check it out on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g300528-d1973883-Reviews-Museo_del_Fin_del_Mundo-Ushuaia_Province_of_Tierra_del_Fuego_Antarctica_and_Islas_Malvinas.html
Food-wise… it’s hearty. Lots of lamb. And seafood, obviously. I had a surprisingly good empanada at a little place called Kaupé. Yelp says it’s a local favorite: https://www.yelp.com/biz/kaupe-ushuaia. I also overheard a local warning someone about the centolla (king crab) - apparently, some of the restaurants try to pass off smaller, less desirable crab as king crab. Buyer beware!
If you get bored, Puerto Williams is just a short ferry ride away - supposedly even windier. I didn’t make it over this time, but it’s on the list for next time. I’m already plotting my return. I need to find that gorse. And maybe apologize to the penguins.
I’m also thinking about checking out some of the hiking trails around Mount Olivia. Apparently, the views are incredible, but you need serious gear. I’m looking at this list of recommended hiking equipment on a local forum: https://www.tierraextrema.com/foro/viewtopic.php?t=12345.
Honestly, ushuaia is a place that gets under your skin. It’s harsh, it’s beautiful, and it’s utterly unforgettable. Just pack a lot* of layers.
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