Tallinn's Static & the Search for a Dry Sock
okay, so tallinn. it’s…a lot. i didn’t really plan on tallinn, honestly. it was a last-minute detour after a gig in *helsinki fell through. the drummer’s kit decided it hated ferries, apparently. anyway, here i am.
first impressions? damp. seriously, perpetually damp. i just checked and it’s…like breathing inside a cloud right now, which is kinda atmospheric until your jeans start sticking to everything. the weather report said 4.45 degrees, feels like 4.45, min 4.45, max 4.45. it’s just…4.45. all the time. and the humidity is one hundred percent. one. hundred. i swear i saw a mushroom growing on my backpack.
i’m a touring session drummer, right? so i’m used to weird venues and questionable catering. but tallinn’s old town is…different. it’s like someone built a medieval lego set and then left it out in the rain for a few centuries. beautiful, sure, but also kinda creaky. i spent a good hour trying to find a decent coffee shop that didn’t look like it was about to collapse. ended up at a place called Reval Cafe, which was fine, i guess. https://www.revalcafe.ee/en/
the people are…reserved. not unfriendly, just…observant. i tried to ask for directions to a music store and got a very long, very detailed explanation of the history of the street i was on. fascinating, but not exactly helpful. if you get bored, riga and vilnius* are just a quick bus ride away, i overheard someone mention at the hostel.
i’ve been staying at the Old Town Alur Hostel. It's pretty basic, but the wifi is surprisingly good, and the communal kitchen is a lifesaver. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g274959-d274989-Reviews-Old_Town_Alur_Hostel-Tallinn.html
someone told me that the Telliskivi Creative City is where all the cool stuff happens. apparently, it’s full of vintage shops and art galleries. i haven’t made it there yet, mostly because i’m still trying to dry my socks. seriously, the dampness is a menace.
i also heard a rumor that there’s a secret underground tunnel system beneath the old town. naturally, i’m obsessed. i’ve been trying to find someone who knows more, but everyone just looks at me like i’m crazy. which, let’s be honest, is a fair assessment. i did find this forum about Tallinn's history, though: https://www.reddit.com/r/Tallinn/
i tried to find a good place for live music, but it’s proving difficult. apparently, most of the gigs are in bars that look like they haven’t been updated since the soviet era. not necessarily a bad thing, but not exactly my vibe. i did stumble across a place called Heltermaa, which looked promising, but it was closed. https://www.yelp.com/biz/heltermaa-tallinn
i overheard a couple of tourists complaining about the prices. apparently, tallinn is more expensive than they expected. i haven’t really noticed, mostly because i’m living on instant noodles and the kindness of strangers.
the pressure is 1036, sea level is 1036, and ground level is 1003. i don't know why i'm even writing this down. it feels important, though. like a clue to something. or maybe i just need more coffee. i'm starting to think i need a whole new wardrobe, too. and definitely more socks. seriously, the dampness…
i think i'm going to go explore that Telliskivi place tomorrow. maybe i'll find a dry pair of socks there. or at least a decent drumstick. you never know.
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