sipping coffee in the mist: a rainy morning in san josé
woke up to the sound of rain tapping on the tin roof and realized i’d forgotten how much i love this kind of weather. the air was thick with humidity, 92% to be exact, and the temperature was a steady 15.87°c-cool enough to keep a light jacket on but warm enough that you don’t feel chilled. i just checked and it’s still hanging around that mark there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
first stop was a tiny café i’d heard about from a barista in guatemala city-"best espresso in central america," he’d said, eyes wide like he was sharing state secrets. it was tucked behind a fruit stall on a side street i almost missed. the espresso was strong, the foam art a wobbly heart that dissolved before i could snap a photo.
later, i wandered toward the central park, where the benches were slick with rain and pigeons huddled under the bandstand. overheard two old men arguing about the best tamale spot in town-"la casa de doña lupe, no doubt," one said, and the other just rolled his eyes. i took that as a sign and found myself at a no-name stall with a line out the door. the tamale was wrapped in banana leaf, steaming, and filled with chicken and a sauce so red it looked dangerous.
“if you’re here on a tuesday, catch the marimba night at the cultural center-locals say it’s the only time the city really dances.”
if you get bored, antigua and quetzaltenango are just a short drive away, though honestly i’d rather stay here and watch the clouds roll over the hills. someone told me that the sunrise from cerro san cristóbal is worth the 4 a.m. hike, but i’m more of a sunset person myself.
last night, i met a group of backpackers at a bar that looked like it hadn’t changed since the 80s. they were swapping stories about border crossings and bus breakdowns. one guy swore the chicken bus to huehuetenango was “the wildest ride of my life,” and i believed him. i stuck to beer and listened, happy to be the quiet one for once.
for anyone planning to visit, check the local *TripAdvisor for updated café hours-many close by 3 p.m. here. and if you’re into street art*, the murals near the old train station are worth the detour. they’re faded but full of character, like the city itself.
this place doesn’t shout for attention, but it rewards the curious. and right now, with the mist rolling in and the streets quiet, i can’t think of anywhere else i’d rather be.
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