sipping coffee and chasing ghosts in huehuetenango
woke up this morning with a headache and a half, probably from that weird dream about llamas wearing sunglasses. anyway, i'm in huehuetenango, guatemala, and the air smells like pine and damp earth. i just checked and it's 34.21°c there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the locals call it "huehue" and honestly, it's got this weird charm that's hard to explain.
you ever notice how some towns just feel like they're holding their breath?
i heard that the best coffee in town comes from a little place called el tostador. someone told me that the owner roasts beans over an open fire, and the smell drifts through the streets like a siren song. i haven't been yet, but it's on my list.
if you get bored, quetzaltenango and huehuetenango are just a short drive away. i mean, not that you'd get bored here, but options are nice, right?
anyway, i'm staying in this tiny guesthouse run by a woman named doña marĂa. she's got a parrot that swears in spanish, and i swear it's the highlight of my day. i asked her about the weather, and she just laughed and said, "aquĂ, el clima es como un niño caprichoso" (here, the weather is like a capricious child). fair enough.
i met a guy last night at a bar who claimed he'd seen a ghost in the old church on the hill. i don't know if i believe him, but he was so earnest about it that i'm tempted to check it out. maybe i'll bring my camera, just in case.
there's something about this place that makes you want to slow down and just... breathe.
i've been walking around a lot, trying to get a feel for the town. the streets are narrow and steep, and the buildings are painted in these faded pastel colors that make everything look like a dream. i keep thinking about how this place must have looked 100 years ago, before the tourists and the instagrammers showed up.
anyway, i'm rambling. here's a map so you can see where i am:
and here are some photos i found online because my camera's battery died:
if you're ever in huehuetenango, check out the old church. it's supposedly haunted, but even if it's not, the view from the top is worth the climb. and if you're into coffee, don't miss finca el injerto. it's a bit of a trek, but the coffee is supposed to be life-changing.
anyway, that's it for now. i'm off to find some food and maybe a ghost or two. hasta luego, amigos.
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