Long Read

Rio de Janeiro: Sticky Humidity and Samba Dreams (Don't Forget Your Deodorant)

@Owen Steele3/4/2026blog

okay, so. rio. it’s… a lot. i just got back, and honestly, my brain feels like a melting popsicle. i’m a touring session drummer, you know? I’m used to chaos, to late nights, to the smell of stale beer and amplifiers. But this? This was a different kind of chaos. A beautiful, sweaty, vibrant kind of chaos.


I was there for a gig - a weird corporate thing, actually, playing bossa nova covers for a tech conference. Seriously. Bossa nova. For tech bros. The irony wasn’t lost on me. But hey, a gig’s a gig, right? And it got me to rio.

The weather? I just checked and it's… a thick, humid blanket clinging to everything. Like someone wrapped the entire city in a damp towel. The feels_like temperature was a solid 33.78 degrees. I’m not kidding. Bring deodorant. Seriously. Multiple kinds. And maybe a personal fan.

Rio de Janeiro beach


I spent most of my downtime wandering around, trying to soak it all in. Copacabana was… crowded. Like, really crowded. But the energy was insane. People playing volleyball, kids building sandcastles, vendors hawking everything from caipirinhas to Havaianas flip-flops. I stumbled upon a little samba school rehearsal - pure, unadulterated joy. I wish I’d brought my sticks.

I ate a lot of pão de queijo. Like, an embarrassing amount. And acai bowls. And feijoada. My stomach is still recovering. I found this amazing little place in Santa Teresa - check it out on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=best+restaurants+in+santa+teresa&find_loc=Rio+de+Janeiro%2C+Rio+de+Janeiro%2C+Brazil. Seriously, go. You won’t regret it.

Rio de Janeiro street art


I overheard some serious gossip at a bar in Lapa. Apparently, the Christ the Redeemer statue has a secret tunnel leading to… well, nobody really knows. Some say it’s a forgotten colonial escape route, others say it’s a portal to another dimension. Drunk advice, probably, but it made for a good story. I also heard that the favelas aren’t as dangerous as people make them out to be, but you absolutely need a guide. Don’t even think about wandering in alone. TripAdvisor has some reputable tour operators: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g301903-Activities-Rio_de_Janeiro_Rio_de_Janeiro_State.html.

Someone told me that the best time to visit Sugarloaf Mountain is early in the morning, before the crowds and the heat. Smart. I should have listened. I went in the afternoon and it was… intense. The views were incredible, though. Absolutely breathtaking.

Sugarloaf Mountain view


If you get bored, Niterói is just a short drive away. It’s got this amazing Oscar Niemeyer-designed museum - Museu de Arte Contemporânea - that’s worth checking out. It’s a bit of a contrast to the bustling energy of the city center. I found a forum with some local tips: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/brazil/rio-de-janeiro/niterói/a/poi-sig/401377/361387.

Honestly, rio is overwhelming. It’s chaotic. It’s hot. It’s sticky. But it’s also… magical. There’s something about the city that just gets under your skin. I’m already thinking about going back. Maybe in the winter. When it’s slightly less… damp.

Pro-tip: Learn a few basic Portuguese phrases. It goes a long way. And be prepared to haggle. Everything is negotiable.

Oh, and one more thing: don’t trust anyone who offers you anything on the beach. Seriously. Just… don’t.


You might also be interested in:

About the author: Owen Steele

Believer in lifelong learning (and unlearning).

Loading discussion...