Quito, Ecuador: Humidity, Heights, and a Whole Lotta Confusion (My Trip)
okay, so. quito. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist. usually, i’m knee-deep in ferns and moss, not dodging rogue taxis and trying to remember which way is up at this altitude. but hey, fieldwork is fieldwork, right? i’m here ostensibly to study some high-altitude orchids, but honestly, i’m mostly just trying to not get altitude sickness and eat something that doesn’t involve potatoes.
i just checked and the air feels like a warm, wet hug. seriously, the humidity is intense. ninety-eight percent? my hair has declared war on me. i’m pretty sure my camera lens is permanently fogged. but the views… oh, the views. the city sprawls out below you, a terracotta dream clinging to the sides of the *Andes. it’s breathtaking, even when you’re gasping for air.
getting around is… an experience. i tried the bus. once. let’s just say i now have a deep appreciation for ride-sharing apps. i ended up using Uber most of the time, which was relatively painless, though the drivers all seem to think red lights are merely suggestions. i did find a really cute little cafe near La Ronda though, called Cafe del Artista. Apparently, they have amazing empanadas. I’ll have to check it out. You can find some reviews on TripAdvisor here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g294305-d12345678-Reviews-Cafe_del_Artista-Quito_Pichincha_Province.html.
and the people! everyone’s been so incredibly friendly, even when i’m butchering the Spanish language. i overheard someone - a very serious-looking gentleman with a fedora - telling another patron at a coffee shop that “the best ceviche in the city is at El Pescador, but don’t go on a Sunday, it’s chaos.” i’m definitely adding that to my list.
“The best ceviche in the city is at El Pescador, but don’t go on a Sunday, it’s chaos.”
my accommodation is… rustic. let’s go with rustic. it’s a little guesthouse in La Mariscal, which is apparently the backpacker district. it’s fine. it has a bed, a shower (that occasionally runs cold), and a view of a very enthusiastic rooster. if you get bored, Guayaquil and Cuenca are just a short drive away. i’m trying to find some local plant nurseries to visit, but so far, i’ve mostly just been wandering around and getting lost. which, honestly, is half the fun.
“Don’t trust the taxis near the airport. They’ll try to charge you triple.”
I stumbled upon a really cool street art scene near Parque La Carolina. Some of the murals are incredible. I’m thinking of trying to sketch some of them later. I found a local art collective’s Instagram page: https://www.instagram.com/quitoarte/. They seem to be doing some really interesting things.
“The altitude will get you. Drink coca tea. Lots of it.”
and the food! okay, i mentioned potatoes. there are a lot of potatoes. but there’s also locro de papa (potato soup, obviously), llapingachos (potato patties), and hornado (roasted pig). i’m trying to be adventurous, but my stomach is staging a minor rebellion. i did find a decent little place on Yelp for some traditional Ecuadorian food: https://www.yelp.com/biz/restaurante-la-mitad-del-mundo-quito.
my gear list, because apparently i’m supposed to do that:
water bottle (essential. seriously.)
sunscreen (the sun is strong)
bug spray (the mosquitos are relentless)
a good pair of walking shoes (you’ll be doing a lot of walking)
a scarf (for the altitude and the chilly evenings)
a phrasebook (my Spanish is… lacking)
a camera (obviously)
* a sense of humor (you’ll need it)
pro-tip: learn a few basic Spanish phrases. even just “hola” and “gracias” will go a long way. and be prepared to haggle. everything is negotiable. i’m still trying to figure out the whole tipping thing. it’s confusing.
okay, i’m off to find more potatoes. and maybe some orchids. wish me luck.
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