Newcastle Upon Tyne: Rain, Rust, and Really Good Chips
okay, so newcastle. it’s…a lot. i ended up here because a friend of a friend needed someone to housesit for their *cat, mr. fluffernutter (don't ask). honestly, i was expecting quaint, maybe a bit of history. what i got was a city that feels like it’s actively trying to be cool, but also hasn’t quite figured out how to shake off its industrial past. and i’m kinda here for it.
first off, the weather. i just looked and it's… persistently damp, let’s say. like, a constant state of almost-raining. it’s not pouring usually, just…present. the air feels thick, and everything has a slight sheen. the data said 10.42 degrees, feels like 9.55, pressure’s at 1003, humidity’s a solid 78%. basically, pack a waterproof jacket and embrace the gloom. i’m not complaining, honestly. it suits the vibe.
spent most of yesterday wandering around the Quayside. it’s all converted warehouses now, full of bars and restaurants. it’s pretty, in a gritty sort of way. someone told me that The Broad Chare is supposed to have amazing pies, but that you need to get there early because it gets rammed. i overheard a bloke in a pub saying it’s “the best pie in the north, end of discussion.” high praise. i also checked out the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art - it’s free, which is always a win, and the views from the top are pretty spectacular. https://www.balticmill.com/
The people here are…direct. no messing about. i asked for directions and got a very detailed, slightly exasperated explanation involving three left turns and a landmark called “the wonky building.” apparently, everyone knows the wonky building. if you get bored, Sunderland and Durham are just a quick train ride away. i’ve been meaning to check out Durham Cathedral, it looks incredible. https://www.durhamcathedral.co.uk/
food-wise, it’s all about the chips. seriously. i’ve had chips from like, five different places now, and they’re all amazing. crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, doused in salt and vinegar. perfection. i heard that Longs Fish and Chips is legendary, but the queue was insane. i ended up at a little place near the Grainger Market and it was fantastic. https://www.graingermarket.co.uk/
“Don’t go near the Bigg Market on a Saturday night unless you want to witness chaos. Absolute chaos.”
that’s what the lady at the corner shop told me. apparently, it’s a student hotspot and things get…lively. i’m not much of a clubber these days, so i think i’ll give that one a miss. i did wander through the Central Station though, and it’s stunning. seriously, it’s like a miniature cathedral.
spent this morning exploring Jesmond Dene*. it’s a beautiful little park, all wooded and winding paths. a nice escape from the city centre. i saw a couple of squirrels and a very grumpy-looking swan. i also stumbled across a little cafe that served amazing coffee. https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Restaurants-g186391-Newcastle_upon_Tyne_England.html
overall, newcastle is…unexpected. it’s not pretty in the postcard sense, but it’s got character. it’s rough around the edges, but it’s also welcoming. and the chips are seriously good. i’m not sure i’d want to live here, but i’m definitely glad i visited. and mr. fluffernutter is a surprisingly demanding roommate.
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