Lisbon's Grey Days & the Best Pastel de Nata You'll Ever (Probably) Have
okay, so. lisbon. i’m back. and honestly? it’s… complicated. i’m a botanist, right? i’m supposed to be all about sunshine and vibrant blooms. but lisbon? it’s got this beautiful, melancholic vibe. like a faded photograph. i just checked and it’s drizzling a persistent, almost apologetic rain there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
I spent a week wandering around, mostly getting lost, which is honestly the best way to experience a place. i was supposed to be scouting locations for a documentary about rare mosses (don’t ask), but… well, mosses took a backseat to pastries and questionable fado performances.
Let’s talk about the food. obviously. everyone raves about the pastel de nata. and yeah, they’re good. really good. but i’m gonna tell you a secret. the hype is a little… manufactured. i mean, they’re flaky and creamy and sugary and all that, but don’t expect your life to change. i found this tiny place, Pastéis de Belém, naturally, but honestly, the ones from a little bakery near my Airbnb were just as good, if not better. Someone told me that Pastéis de Belém is a tourist trap, and they might be right.
I spent a lot of time just… sitting. in cafes, on benches overlooking the *Tagus River, just watching people. the light is incredible, even when it’s grey. it’s this soft, diffused glow that makes everything look a little bit romantic, even the pigeons.
I did a walking tour of Alfama, which was… interesting. the guide was a lovely old woman who kept getting distracted by her cats. she told us all about the history of the neighborhood, but mostly she just wanted to show us pictures of her fluffy Persians. It was charming, in a chaotic sort of way. I heard that the Fado houses in Alfama are overpriced and touristy, but I still went to one. It was… an experience. Loud, emotional, and definitely involving a lot of red wine.
Pro-Tip #1: Wear comfortable shoes. seriously. those cobblestone streets are brutal.
Pro-Tip #2: Learn a few basic Portuguese phrases. even just “obrigado” goes a long way.
Pro-Tip #3: Don’t be afraid to get lost. that’s where the real magic happens.
I also spent a day in Sintra, which is about a 40-minute train ride from Lisbon. It’s like stepping into a fairytale. Pena Palace is absolutely insane - all bright colors and turrets and whimsical details. It’s crowded, though. very crowded. I’d recommend going early, or maybe even on a weekday. Check out TripAdvisor for some tips on avoiding the worst of the crowds: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g189876-Activities-Sintra_Lisbon_District_Central_Portugal.html.
If you get bored, Porto and Évora are just a short drive away. I didn’t make it to either this time, but I’m already planning my return trip.
I stumbled upon a really cool vintage shop in the Bairro Alto* district. It was crammed full of amazing clothes - old dresses, leather jackets, quirky hats. I ended up buying a ridiculously oversized scarf that I’m probably never going to wear, but it makes me happy just looking at it. Yelp has some good reviews of vintage shops in the area: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=vintage+clothing&find_loc=Lisbon,+Portugal.
Honestly, lisbon isn’t perfect. it’s a little rough around the edges. it’s a little grey. but it’s also incredibly charming and full of character. and the pastries… well, the pastries are pretty amazing. I'm already looking at flights back. Maybe I'll even find some interesting mosses next time.
For more Lisbon inspiration, check out this local forum: https://www.lisboalovers.com/
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