Kolkata & the Humidity That Follows You Home
okay, so kolkata. it’s…a lot. i’m still trying to process it, honestly. landed with absolutely zero expectations, just a vague idea of *tea and a number - 1271346, which i keep seeing everywhere, like some kind of weird city code. then another one popped up: 1356435927. i swear, it’s like the universe is trying to send me a message in prime numbers.
i’m a freelance photographer, and usually i’m chasing light, but here? the light is…thick. it feels like you could cut it with a knife. i just checked and it’s hovering around twenty-five degrees, with the air feeling like a warm hug you didn’t ask for. the humidity is a solid seventy-nine percent, which means my hair has officially declared independence and is living its best life as a separate entity.
i’ve been wandering around, mostly getting lost in the markets. seriously, you could spend a lifetime exploring these places. new market is insane - a total sensory overload. i overheard someone saying it’s where you go to buy everything you didn’t know you needed, and also things you definitely don’t need. TripAdvisor has some good advice on navigating it.
someone told me to avoid the street food near howrah station after dark. apparently, it’s a “rumble in the tumble” situation with questionable hygiene. i’m taking that advice.
the buildings here are incredible, crumbling in a beautiful way. it’s like the city is wearing its history on its sleeve. i spent an afternoon photographing the victoria memorial, which is…well, it’s a lot of marble. very colonial. You can find more info on its history here.
my guesthouse is in a pretty lively neighborhood. if you get restless, the sundarbans are just a day trip away, apparently. the people here are…intense. in a good way, mostly. they’re incredibly curious and always willing to help, even if they don’t speak a word of english. i tried to ask for directions to a tea shop and ended up with a twenty-minute conversation about cricket, involving a lot of hand gestures.
i heard that park street is the place to be for nightlife, but also that it’s incredibly touristy. someone else warned me about the auto rickshaw drivers - apparently, they’re masters of negotiation (read: overcharging). Yelp has some reviews of restaurants in the area.
i’m trying to find a good place to get my camera cleaned. it’s covered in dust and grime, a testament to my adventurous spirit (or just my general clumsiness). i also need to find a decent coffee* shop. i’m starting to crave something that doesn’t involve cardamom. This blog post has a list of cafes.
honestly, kolkata is exhausting. but it’s also…magnetic. i keep wanting to peel back another layer, to understand what makes this city tick. it’s messy, chaotic, and utterly captivating. and those numbers? still popping up. maybe i should start a conspiracy theory.
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