Kochi: Rain, Rust, and Really Weird Fish
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm chai. i landed in kochi yesterday, and honestly, it’s… a thing. it’s not good in a postcard kind of way, not like, ‘oh my god, look at the turquoise water!’ it’s more like… a really intense, slightly melancholic watercolor. the humidity is clinging to everything, like a damp, insistent friend. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the temp is 23.38 feels like 23.01, pressure 1009, sea level 985. it’s a weird combo, you know?
i’m staying in this place - it’s called ‘the rusty anchor’ - which is basically a converted warehouse with a bunch of mismatched furniture and a surprisingly aggressive parrot named captain. the owner, a guy named joseph, keeps telling me stories about the old spice trade, and i’m pretty sure he’s embellishing everything. he said someone told him that the best fish curry in town is at a tiny stall down by the harbor, but i’m skeptical. i’ve seen some things down here.
seriously, the harbor is something else. it’s not pretty, not in the traditional sense. it’s full of boats - mostly battered fishing boats - and nets, and a whole lot of… stuff. there’s this one guy, rammohan, who sells live fish out of a rickety cart. he’s got this intense stare, and he just… watches you. it’s unsettling. i overheard gossip that he’s a retired fisherman who lost his leg in a storm, and now he just… observes. creepy, right?
i spent the afternoon wandering around fort kochi, which is, like, a massive, crumbling fort. it’s beautiful in a decaying sort of way. the walls are covered in moss, and there are these little shrines tucked away in corners. it felt… ancient. i found a really cool little shop selling traditional kerala jewelry - i almost bought a whole necklace, but i remembered i’m trying to keep my luggage light. i’m aiming for a minimalist vibe, you know?
if you get bored, thrissur are just a short drive away. i’m thinking of checking out the temple there tomorrow. i heard that… well, someone told me that the elephant rituals are pretty intense. like, really intense. i’m not sure i’m ready for that.
gear list (because i need to document this chaos):
my battered camera (obviously)
a notebook full of scribbled thoughts
a ridiculously oversized backpack
a portable charger (because i always forget to charge things)
a bottle of sunscreen (seriously, the sun is brutal)
a phrasebook (i’m pretty sure my malayalam is limited to ‘hello’ and ‘thank you’)
* a packet of digestive biscuits (essential for travel emergencies)
seriously, the food here is… an experience. i had this fish stew last night that tasted vaguely of seaweed and regret. it wasn’t bad, per se, just… memorable. i’m trying to find a decent coffee shop, but it’s proving difficult. there’s this place called ‘the bean counter’ that looks promising, but i’m not holding my breath. i need a serious caffeine injection.
check out this TripAdvisor page for some more ideas: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g298383-Activities-Kochi_Kerala_State.html
and for the best local eats, Yelp is your friend: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&sort_by=relevance&location=Kochi%2C+Kerala%2C+India
if you're looking for local forums, this one seems pretty active: https://www.kochiforum.com/
okay, i’m going to go find some more chai. and maybe try to avoid eye contact with rammohan.
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