Kochi: Rain, Rust, and Really Weird Fish

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm chai. i landed in kochi yesterday - kerala, india - and honestly, it’s… a lot. like, a beautiful, chaotic, slightly unsettling lot. the humidity is clinging to everything, you know? it’s like a damp, insistent hug. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the pressure’s sitting at 1012, which is…fine, i guess? feels like 29.14, which is also fine, i think.

i was aiming for a chill, solo exploration, but i’ve already been dragged into a debate about the best way to prepare chemmeen (fish curry) by a guy named joseph who runs a tiny stall near the harbor. joseph, by the way, has a stare that could curdle milk. he told me someone told him that the secret ingredient is a pinch of nutmeg, but i’m skeptical. it felt more like drunk advice, honestly.

my accommodation is…rustic. let’s call it ‘characterful.’ it’s a guesthouse in fort kochi, which is basically a maze of crumbling colonial buildings and spice warehouses. the walls are stained with something vaguely orange, and there’s a persistent buzzing sound coming from somewhere - probably a family of bats. it’s…immersive.

i spent the afternoon wandering around the Jewish Synagogue - seriously impressive architecture, considering it’s been standing for centuries. it’s a bit of a trek to get there, though. you’ll need good shoes. and maybe a map. i got hopelessly lost for about an hour. someone told me that the best place to find fresh fruit is the market in Mattancherry, but i haven’t made it there yet. i’m prioritizing sleep, mostly.

there’s a weird vibe here, you know? a sense of history layered on top of something…else. i overheard a group of fishermen talking about a ‘sea demon’ that haunts the backwaters - they were laughing, but there was a genuine fear in their voices. it’s probably just a local legend, but it adds to the atmosphere. if you get bored, [kerala] are just a short drive away.

i tried to check out the Kerala Folklore Museum, but it was closed for renovations. bummer. i did, however, stumble upon a street art collective painting murals on some of the older buildings. it’s a bit rough around the edges, but it’s definitely adding some color to the place. i’m thinking of trying my hand at some street art myself - maybe a giant, slightly deranged fish.

gear list (because i’m a professional, obviously):
mosquito repellent (seriously, bring industrial strength)
lightweight, breathable clothes (it’s hot!)
a good book (for when you inevitably get lost)
a universal adapter (seriously, don’t forget this)
a phrasebook (hindi is surprisingly useful here)
a healthy dose of skepticism

i’m planning on checking out the Chinese fishing nets tomorrow - they’re a pretty iconic sight. i’ve also heard that the seafood is incredible. i’m hoping to find a place that serves joseph’s chemmeen, but i’m also open to suggestions. i found a decent-looking restaurant on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=seafood&sort_by=relevance&location=kochi%2C+kerala%2C+india

i’m also trying to avoid tourist traps. i heard that the spice markets are a bit of a rip-off, but i’m willing to risk it if the spices are amazing. i’m aiming for a TripAdvisor score of 4.5 or higher, but honestly, i’m just here for the experience. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g293569-Activities-Kochi_Kerala_Malabar_Coast.html

i’m starting to think i need a stronger coffee. and maybe a nap. and definitely more chemmeen.

i’m going to try and find a local forum to ask for recommendations: https://www.reddit.com/r/kerala/

honestly, this place is wild. i’m not sure what’s going to happen next, but i’m definitely keeping you updated. wish me luck.

Kochi: Rain, Rust, and Really Weird Fish

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About the author: Emma Hayes

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